Every dog, regardless of their size or temperament, should be taught to wear a muzzle. Why? Because muzzles are vitally important for safety, both for people and their dogs.
Muzzles are often viewed as problematic pieces of equipment that come with a lot of stigma. Chances are if you see a person walking a dog wearing a muzzle, you'll probably give that dog a wide berth. And while muzzles do protect both people and dogs from being harmed, they should be fitted sensitively and worn correctly so that the dog is not stressed out by wearing one.
Puppyhood is the best time to start habituating dogs to having their faces and mouths handled, as well as getting them comfortable with the feeling of having something on their faces that restricts the movement of their mouths. This is especially important not just for vet visits where the most docile of dogs can react if they're fearful or in pain, but for any situation where a dog might be nervous or overwhelmed.
Why can muzzles cause stress?
While muzzles are vital safety tools, they can also cause untold amounts of stress for dogs that are not used to wearing them. The sudden restriction of facial movement and confinement of the mouth can cause panic in the calmest of dogs as their primary method of defense is taken away. Not only that – certain muzzles can restrict breathing - making it very hard for dogs to breathe normally and to cool themselves down.
Teaching your dog to wear a muzzle
Teaching any dog to wear a muzzle should be a slow, careful process, as it's especially important to do things right, particularly with dogs that are nervous or don't like being handled around the mouth or face.
- To begin, make sure you choose the right muzzle for your dog. Sounds like common sense but it's shocking how many muzzles either don't fit well or close the mouth completely for long periods of time. A good muzzle is one that fits snugly but comfortably and doesn't restrict the dog’s natural functions, such as panting. A groomer’s mesh or cloth muzzle is useful while a dog is being groomed or at the vet, but should only be used for short periods and only when the dog is continually supervised. Muzzles that close the mouth completely can be very dangerous, especially when the dog is exercising or feels unwell. A basket muzzle is the best option for most dogs and allows the dog to open his mouth to thermoregulate (pant), drink water, take a treat or vomit without the danger of aspiration.
- Don’t make the common mistake of only putting the muzzle on when your dog is in a situation or environment that makes her uncomfortable – in the presence of strangers or when there are loud noises. The key to successful acclimation is to pair the muzzle with good things and fun experiences, rather than the muzzle becoming a predictor of “bad” or “scary” experiences. Once that is done, the muzzle can be worn when needed.
- To habituate your puppy or adult dog to a muzzle, bring it out for her to investigate and pair her curiosity with her favorite treat or toy. Don't attempt to put the muzzle on at this point. Simply present, treat, and remove the muzzle from view. You don't need to use very high-value treats or toys at this stage, but make sure these good things ONLY happen when the muzzle is present.
- Once your dog is comfortable, it's time to begin the process of teaching her to put her nose inside the muzzle basket. To start, cup your hand around the basket and place high-value food inside it. Don't force your dog’s nose inside the basket but allow her to work out how to get the desired food from inside the muzzle at her own pace. Use additional food that you can feed through the muzzle to keep your dog’s nose in the basket for longer and longer periods.
- You can also place the muzzle on the ground with some peanut butter inside and allow your dog to put her own head in it to get to the food, as long as she doesn't start chewing on the muzzle itself. This gives more sustained reinforcement than individual treats. Remember to pick the muzzle up and put it away when she's finished.
- Once your dog is comfortable keeping her nose voluntarily inside the muzzle to receive rewards, you can begin touching your dog’s head like you would if you were to fasten the head strap, if there is one, while the dog’s nose is in the muzzle. Do not actually fasten the strap at this time - just get her used to being handled around the head.
- After you have successfully acclimated your dog to this step, you can fasten the strap and keep the muzzle on for very short periods. If you're teaching with a basket muzzle, keep high value food flowing during the time your dog is wearing it, or just give plenty of praise for grooming muzzles where treats can't be delivered. Make sure to remove the muzzle before your dog becomes uncomfortable or panicked by the new sensation.
It's important that you don't move too quickly through these stages as any progress you might make could be damaged by taking a stage too fast and forcing your dog into doing something she doesn't want to do.
Problem solving
If your dog tries to get the muzzle off, get a favorite treat, play a fun game or take her for a walk as long as she's wearing a basket muzzle. Only remove the muzzle when your dog is not actively trying to remove it herself by rubbing her head on something or trying to get it off with her paw. If she is doing this, you have gone too fast.
Keep the teaching fun! Your ultimate goal is for your dog to make a positive association between the muzzle and good things. Work in short, fun training sessions of about 10-15 minutes each and if you feel your dog becoming agitated, frustrated, distracted, or uncomfortable at any time, take a break and/or go back to the previous step and build up again. Keep the training light and fun and your dog should voluntarily put her face in the muzzle any time you bring it out for her to wear.
