Loose Lead walking

[Mattie]

Thanks, that is probably why I was puzzled when you sand equipment dependent, I don't use equipment to control my dogs. If I have a dog that pulls, I do some loose lease training first before taking them all out. By the time I have finished with the training session my dog no longer pulls, probably because he is too tired by this time.

I use harnesses on all my dogs when walking them because several have come with damaged necks and can't be walked on collars. I also use the same harnesses for attaching to seatbelts when the are in the car.

[Pawzk9]

Thanks, that is probably why I was puzzled when you sand equipment dependent, I don't use equipment to control my dogs. If I have a dog that pulls, I do some loose lease training first before taking them all out. By the time I have finished with the training session my dog no longer pulls, probably because he is too tired by this time.

I use harnesses on all my dogs when walking them because several have come with damaged necks and can't be walked on collars. I also use the same harnesses for attaching to seatbelts when the are in the car.

From your description of how you train, I'm sure that the actual training is why you have nice loose leash walking on the equipment that you prefer (not so much the equipment itself.) I also suspect you wouldn't really try walking a dog without a good understanding of LLW along with a group of other dogs, and expect him to be successful. I also prefer harnesses to collars, for training, because I think it's harder to accidently "correct" the dog, and dogs are less anxious and more comfortable without constriction on their neck (and also more comfortable without something putting pressure on the bridge of their nose (head halter). I also use a leash pretty much to keep the dog from leaving, instead of as an active training tool.
But I have come across a lot of people who are less interested in teaching their dog not to pull than they are in coming across a magic tool to keep their dog from pulling. Most dogs show some improvement witih slightly more "controlling" equipment and their people think the problem is solved. But if you (general you) don't also give the dog real training so they understand how to stay with you instead of being held in place, the new tool (unless it's terribly aversive) loses its novelty, and the dog eventually ignores that too. Then you have to look for something even more controlling.

[Mattie]

What I have found is when people see my with my dogs and how well behaved they are they ask how I managed to do it. I am then able to show them how to get their dogs to walk on a loose lead and because it is so quick for the dog to start watching them, they go away happy and full of how they are also going to have a dog walking on a loose lead, they usually do as well.

[Noobs]

But I have come across a lot of people who are less interested in teaching their dog not to pull than they are in coming across a magic tool to keep their dog from pulling. Most dogs show some improvement witih slightly more "controlling" equipment and their people think the problem is solved. But if you (general you) don't also give the dog real training so they understand how to stay with you instead of being held in place, the new tool (unless it's terribly aversive) loses its novelty, and the dog eventually ignores that too. Then you have to look for something even more controlling.

I wanted to come into the conversation to say I totally agree with this. I got a Sporn for my dog and thought it was the solution to get him to stop pulling. But it wasn't until I did Mattie's LLW method on this thread that my dog ACTUALLY STOPPED pulling. On the Sporn I was able to pull him back if he got to the end of the leash, but it didn't stop him from pulling because I still let him get in front of me. That was what I discovered to be the key - and it seems like a no-brainer but I think that people generally think that the tools are what help stop the pulling when it's actually the training that does it. I have an easywalk harness on my dog now because he still has about 5% of the fear issues that he had when I first started working with him, so I use the harness to manage when I am not able to spot the cat before he does (when it's dark out or he saw it under a car), etc.

But I have found that a combination of the LLW method I learned here and walking him in areas with little distraction at first and then increasing distraction is what makes walking my dog so much more relaxing and enjoyable now than before.

[shelby]

So my dog Gabe is a puller. We've been using a gentle leader head collar which really seemed to help at first but it seems he's getting used to it because he's starting to pull again. I really hate for him to pull wearing the head collar because it makes a dent in his face that looks really uncomfortable. I've been trying to do the thing where you turn around when he starts to pull but instead of following me he lays down and refuses to move. I can't even lure him with treats(he's not very food motivated anyway). What should I do when he does that? Is there another method that might work better for him?

[Mattie]

I've been trying to do the thing where you turn around when he starts to pull but instead of following me he lays down and refuses to move. I can't even lure him with treats(he's not very food motivated anyway). What should I do when he does that? Is there another method that might work better for him?

There is always one I don't like using treats for teaching loose lead walking, because I don't want to lure them for this but want them to develop the habit of walking on a loose lead.

Plan a whole day and get out early, take a bag with good book and something to eat and drink. Start the training and when he lays down, you sit down, ignore him and open your book etc. when is curiosity gets the better of him and he comes to you, lots and lots and lots and lots of praise.

You then get up and start it all again, if he lays down you sit down and read your book etc. Don't give up, it may take all day but eventually he will stop the laying down because it doesn't work.

He has to decided for himself to follow you, you will never get him to walk on a loose lead unless it is his decision. He may try it again the next day, sit down as soon as he lies down and ignore him. Dogs stop doing things that don't work, lying down has worked up to now so he will start by trying harder when it doesn't work the first time but persever.

[shelby]

I will try that. My neighbors are going to think I'm crazy though haha

[Mattie]

People who know me don't think I am crazy, they know I am. You get used to looking silly when training dogs but it also makes us better trainers because we are putting our dogs before ourselves.

[spydre]

Okay, color me confused, but what is the difference between loose leash walking, and walking to a heel?

[Mattie]

Okay, color me confused, but what is the difference between loose leash walking, and walking to a heel?

I was hoping nobody would ask this because it is difficult to explain

Walking to heel a dog has to be in a set position, very close to he handler and is used for obedience. Walking on a loose lead the dog doesn't have to be to heel, he can be anywhere as long as the lead is loose, it depends on the length of the lead.

Depending on were I am walking my dogs I can have quite alongish lead or a short lead. With a longish lead my dogs can walk in front, to the side etc, on a short lead my dog is walking to heal. It doesn't matter as long s the lead is loose.

[Noobs]

A heel is when the dog is at your left leg the whole time, very structured. LLW is much "looser" if you will. LLW just means the dog isn't pulling and is staying by your side in general. That's my understanding of it anyway.

[minnie]

Hi There
I am new to this site and need mega help. I have a 3 year old American Bulldog, as you can imagine he is very strong and takes me for a walk. I have looked at the method for training and am totally confused what to use to go out on walks. Because he drags me I no longer take him out, which I know is very very naughty, but If he was better on lead I would be happy to do it everyday. Also when he sees another dog he was to get to them and play he cries and barks which often frightens the other dogs and I struggle to drag him away. I was using a Halti on him. Can you please help. As I said before I am new on this site and not brilliant on computers so I hope I will be able to get any replies from you guys. Would you say It would help me to get Victorias book It's me or the dog.
PLEASE HELP and turn my smile the right way up

[globe]

I also have a 6ft lead which I attach to the harness, with the dog on my left I hold the loop in the lead in my right hand, my left hand holds the lead nearer my dog but which lets them me on a loose lead, the lead between my hands is loose as well.

Can you explain this bit for me. I do not quite get what you mean, thanks

[Noobs]

I also have a 6ft lead which I attach to the harness, with the dog on my left I hold the loop in the lead in my right hand, my left hand holds the lead nearer my dog but which lets them me on a loose lead, the lead between my hands is loose as well.

Can you explain this bit for me. I do not quite get what you mean, thanks

Hopefully this will help:

Have the dog on your left. Hold the leash loop (the opposite end) with your right so that the leash crosses in front of you. Hold the middle of the leash with your left.

So it should look like this:

dog ------ left hand ---- you ---- right hand (with the dotted lines being the leash)

Did that help?

[globe]

Have the dog on your left. Hold the leash loop (the opposite end) with your right so that the leash crosses in front of you. Hold the middle of the leash with your left.

So it should look like this:

dog ------ left hand ---- you ---- right hand (with the dotted lines being the leash)

Did that help?

I thought this was what was meant but there was talk of using two leads and this started to confuse me a touch. thanks for the explanation.