Harness that Doesn't Chafe

[CDrom]

Hi everyone. I'm hoping someone has insight on a harness product out there that would be good for my German Shorthaired Pointer, Cooper. He's a wonderful, 2 year old GSP who loves to run with me.

Unfortunately, I've yet to find a harness (or other product) that helps control Cooper on walks/runs that doesn't chafe him. The usual hot spot is around his armpits. We're working with him on good loose lead training but I think will all his energy and as big as he is (about 70 pounds), we'll still need a product to assist with the process.

I feel like we've tried everything. Gentle Leader, Sporn, Sense-ation...you name it.

I'm currently just using a plain old collar...but don't like this as a long term solution. Thanks for all your help!

[ckranz]

What behavior are you trying to fix? Does Cooper pull? If so to help him with positioning try a wooden spoon dipped in peanut butter.

[CDrom]

Yes, I should have specified...Cooper pulls. But not intensely. He's just a big, energetic boy and wants to go, go, go!

Great suggestion on the wooden spoon...I haven't heard/read anything like that before.

I've spent a lot of time reading all the fantastic info on this forum, as well as all the other great resources out there. I've tried the stop and turn method, the stop dead in my tracks method, etc...

Bottom line is that I'm probably not communicating to him the best that I can, as he's not been responsive to these methods over the long term. He's a very smart, well behaved, calm-submissive dog. So I'm sure I'm part of the problem.

But as we work through those issues, I really want to find a harness that's safe for him. I started looking at this product from Larz ( http://www.larzpetgear.com/ ).

Anyone heard of this?

Thanks again!

[Mattie]

I use a trail/tracking type harness for my dogs including my Greyhound, I have never known this harness to rub. The strap is placed quite a bit further back than most harnesses so can't rub the elbow or round there.

This is Bonnie in her harness, as you can see one strap goes down each side of her neck with another between her front legs.



This picture shows how far back the strap round her body is, well back from her elbows so can't rub there. There is also a strap on top that you can hold for extra strength.

[CDrom]

That looks promising Mattie! Thanks very much for your response.

Do you have a link to where I could purchase one?

[Yoshi]

My Xavier has one almost exactly like that. He doesn't mind it at all, and his coat and skin remain in great shape.

I don't know where Mattie got hers, but I bought mine from PetSmart under the Top Paw brand.

[Mattie]

I bought mine from http://petcraftproject.proboards24.com/index.cgi? If you live in the UK Pets at Home sell this design made by Ancol.

[Monkey]

Mattie, that is not an anti pull harness though..

With that sort of harness the dogs get MORE strenght with their whole bodies or am I off?? I use Y front harnesses on all my dogs cause they are comfortable for the dog that DOES pull (I don't mind the pulling after 3 hours walk they stop anyhow) but they do get stronger with it, not more managable in my opinion or is it some gadget there I havent seen??

[ckranz]

That looks promising Mattie! Thanks very much for your response.

Do you have a link to where I could purchase one?

Basic leash walking training for pullers:

pre reqs:
your dog knows what a clicker is and means

you have anorienting signal. This would be a sound like a kissing noise, jaw click, whistle etc. Charge this noise as you do a clicker. make the noise and give a treat. You should start to see your dog turn to you as you make the noise after about 10 times.

1. Start in an environment withno distraction...I used my kitechen and living room.

2. With your dog on leash start walking backwards (minding furniture of course), you dog should start coming towards you. As he reaches you mark and reward using a good treat...like chicken, a lick of peanut butter etc...
3. after he passes you turn around and start walking backwards again. As you turn use your orienting sound. As you are moving the opposite direction your dog should start moving toward you. Again whe he gets up to you mark and reward.

repeats steps 2 and 3 until your dog no longer passes you.

4. Start walking backwards, as your dog reaches you turn yourself 180 degrees, so you are walking where you are looking. Once turned around mark and reward your dog. Your treat should always be delivered where you want your dog's head to be positioned.

5. When he passes you make your orienting noise and start walking backwards again as in step 4.

Repeat steps 4 and 5 until he no longer walks past you.

6 No just work walking facing forward. mark and reward when your dog is where you want him to walk.

7. When he passes, make your orienting sound and turn around walking the other direction, makr and reward as he reaches you walking position

repeat steps 6 and 7 until he walks with you

Practice turns by walking around chairs, tables or other furniture
To increase or improve healing dip a wooden spoon in peanut butter. As you are walking click and dip the spoon for quick lick and then raise it back as you are walking.

Once your dog has mastered things at this level (this is kindergarten leash walking) its time to add some distractions.

place some kibble on the a chair. Repeat steps 6 and 7 using the orienting noise and a higher value treat than what is on the chair...basically put a nickel on the chair and use a 20 as a reward. Mark and reward every 2 steps that he remains focused. I found this easier to start walking with myself position closest to the chair (right turns if dog is walking on the left).

Repeat the above and has your dog pays more and more attention to you, increase the difficulty by walking figure 8's around 2 chairs, or by increasing the distraction level by putting better and better treats on the chair.

It is crucial that you do not let your dog get the treat on the chair, even if you have to increase you radius. The spoon in peanut butter will also help keep many dogs attention and focus on you the handler. (elementary leash walking)

Once your dog has mastered these skills indoors, its time to repeat everything out doors in your back and front yards. Minimal to low noise distractions. As he masters walkng around his yard, now start walking up and down your street, using the same tactics and techniques to keep your dog's focus. Increase the rate of the reward as needed.

As your dog masters these skills its time to start varying the reward schedule and fading from food rewards to real life rewards. (high school leash walking)

For higher education, use these techniques to teach a formal obedience heel, work on your dog moving with your inside leg, forwards and backwards or side to side. Increase the distraction level to regular walking with other dogs on and off leash (your dog on leash other dogs could be either) MBA level would be off-leash heeling.

Using the above techniques, which I learned in my puppy, basic and advanced pet training classes, I have helped many friends train their dogs from being huge pullers to walking politely. I admit my dogs are only at a highschool level, but that is all I need of them. Set your own criteria to what you want your dogs to do. I have had to work with some big pullers too. A friends 90lb GSD who pulls even while wearing a prong. I had her walking in a dog park of all places on a flat buckle collar in 5 minutes...not that the owner continued to train but that is another story.

I have not found or seen a breed this technique does not work with from Huskies who are bred to pull to very strong pitbulls and staffies who seem to have endless energy and a true zeal for being at the end of a leash.

Real life rewards...almost forgot to mention this. These are things your dog wants to do, like sniff the hydrant or tree. Meet another person or dog (one you know is friendly) explore a strange smell found along the trail. Releasing your dog from a heel to "check it out", "say hi" etc... can be a great reward for your dog...even better than steak or raw meat. Also the walk is for him, he wants to smell and be a dog. It will help him feel more relaxed in his environment. Use a cue like "lets go" to have him return to polite leash walking.

[Mattie]

Mattie, that is not an anti pull harness though..

With that sort of harness the dogs get MORE strenght with their whole bodies or am I off?? I use Y front harnesses on all my dogs cause they are comfortable for the dog that DOES pull (I don't mind the pulling after 3 hours walk they stop anyhow) but they do get stronger with it, not more managable in my opinion or is it some gadget there I havent seen??

No they don't get more strenght from these harnesses, if they did I wouldn't be able to walk all 6 of my dogs together, I would be barely able to walk them one at a time. They all pulled when they first arrived and these harnesses really helped teach them not to pull.

Are you talking from experience? I am, not only for the dogs I have now, but previous dogs, dogs who's owners I have put onto these harnesses and reports from many many other owners who bought them from the same place I have.

If you allow your dog to be well in front of you then they do have extra strength to pull but that is the case with EVERY harness, not just these.

Dogs do have to be taught to walk on a loose lead, they don't know how to until they are taught. This harness helps with this, if you raise your hand slightly, it lifts the chest so the dog can't pull. It doesn't take much pressure on the chest to do this, but it does alter the dog's centre of gravity enough.

Dogs don't pull, they push into the harness, if you stop the dog from putting their weight into the harness, they cannot pull. That is what this harness does if used properly.

None pull harnesses work the wrong way, instead of stopping the dog from putting his weight forward into the harness the make it uncomfortable for the dog. I have seen dogs that accepted being uncomfortable because what they are doing is more rewarding.

[Gershep1]

Unfortunately, I've yet to find a harness (or other product) that helps control Cooper on walks/runs that doesn't chafe him. The usual hot spot is around his armpits.

I am waaaay late on this, but for any equipment chafing problems I go to a tack store and buy the fleece wraps used on horse halters.