Fear of dogs and strangers and everything new... (split topic)

[Austin and me]

AND everything new.

I'm not sure how to go about socializing my pit bull/boxer mix - she's 2 1/2 years old; she has some training - some group (we got kicked out of puppy training because of food guarding during the fetch lessons) and quite a bit private. It's just very difficult getting her in and out of the vets. She's very strong. She does know 'watch me' and will work for treats, but in very new situations, or out walking and encountering ANY animal or person, she is so nervous she cannot be distracted.

I guess we have to get the training down rock solid and take it very slow. My vet and boarding folks are very nice to work with me - usually ending up carrying her in. She takes shots well and while she's in the exam room/her own boarding place, seems to do fine. She cannot mix with other dogs however. We had a problem the last 2 years when my older dog was still living, which, of course, cropped up unexpectedly when Austin went through puberty and decided to go for head dog. I didn't understand it at the time and we handled her very cautiously for a bit, which probably didn't help.

Now, it is just us two (well, actually also my cat, but during Austin's free time in the house, the cat has the master suite to himself) - so perhaps we can make some headway - at least with people. I've asked a friend to stop by a few times a week to help get her used to visitors. If we go slow, she does ok - but with her strength, nervousness and fear, she's impossible to walk at the moment.

thanks for listening. Any specific advice would be welcome!

[emmabeth]

Hiya

Ive split your post so that its a new topic - its better if everyone has their own thread as though problems can seem similar, they may actually not be, also some of us (ME!!) sometimes get confused when trying to help out several different people/dogs on the same thread.

Can you give us some more details about your dog, how she reacts to whatever shes fearful of, and what you have done previously to address this.

Also give us an idea as to what her typical day is like.

We like long posts... so stick in anything you think is relevant - better we read through stuff that isnt that important, than miss out on info that IS important!

[Austin and me]

When we have a new person over, she's usually initially crated and will bark. I can take her out on the leash, but I have to work with both the person and Austin - if someone new walks toward her, she backs into me. If we're going to a new place, she will pull away - and tries to pull out of her collar - I bought a martingale collar which has been fairly successful, but if I'm taking her to boarding or to the vet, I have to also have a slip lead (and sometimes I also leave seat belt harness on) - most times, she has to be carried in to either place; she's 40 lbs, so I need help. The vet has had someone meet me outside and taken her in from there. Same with the boarding place.

A typical day -
7 - 7am -- she goes from her crate to a pen in the back yard.
6:30-7pm -- she comes inside or we try to spend a little time in the back yard
7 -7:30 pm -- dinner (in the crate)
7:30-8 or 8:30 - petting or time in the house (restricted rooms)
8:30pm - in the crate for night time

- one of the reasons I'm wrestling with trying to rehome her is that I am not home most of the day and, while sometimes, she is calm, by evening she's pretty wild and difficult to handle. She is crated at night and spends the day in her pen - I've been trying to save the money to enlarge it - it's 10x10 - I cannot leave her in the yard, because she or her neighbor dogs worry each other the wood fence and it's not secure - the neighbor german shepherd has broken one fence post and nearly come through and the fence has a loose post on the other side where there's a smaller dog.

-I'm fixing the loose board today and we'll try running the yard again. It's just hard to do with the german shepherd next door threatening and barking and banging on the fence.

- If I try to walk her, even around the yard - she will try to pull out of her collar (I know she wants a good run 8-() and, while I can usually maintain control, there are times when, if she's determined, I'm not sure I can control her. She will sit and wait for her collar, and even stay, but then it's off and pulling - I will stand my ground and hold her closer to me to keep her from running ahead - it takes a lot of strength.

- I have ordered a tracking harness someone said on here that they've used - I have been trying to get her used to a Gentle Leader - she will take it but then is annoyed with it - not even treats will distract her from wanting it off. I'd feel better about walking her if I could use a muzzle with her as well.

-I try to spend at least 30 minutes or more with her loose in the house, but that's not necessarily every night. If she's too wild for loose, I keep her on the leash just to have some petting time. She NEVER seems to relax unless she's in her crate.

Anytime we introduce play (I've worked with her on leave it with 2 stuffed toys), she gets very wild. I know she's lacking exercise, I'm just not confident I can handle her. My daughter used to walk her, but she's moved. And then, she didn't really enjoy it - she would get loose and most of the time, she would end up carrying her home.

-of late, she's also taken to jumping up and snapping at me - it hasn't resulted in any injuries - and, as long as she's on leash, she'll sit - sometimes, she has to sit and reset 5 or 6 times just on the way in the door!

- I'm not a particularly aggressive person, so I really have to work at being assertive with her - maybe that's a good thing, but I'm just not very comfortable or relaxed around this dog.

I took her to training for about 2 months this summer - I felt better with the trainer, but now, on my own, it's a bit tougher. I feel like I'm housing this dog, but not really enjoying her (or her me) as a companion.

Thanks -

[ladybug1802]

Hi....I think you hit the nail on the head when you said she needs more exercise. Absolutely - in my opinion! From the sounds of it she is really getting basically no exercise, and definitely not enough for her. Coupled with being left alone all day she is a rather stressed dog, full of energy with no outlet for her frustrations. Do you do any mental stimulation type games with her? Or try taking her for a decent long walk every day, before you leave her for the day, on a long line so she can at least run about?

I know this sounds harsh, and it isnt meant to be at all, but if I am honest, my feeling is that she WOULD be better off being rehomed with someone who can give her the time and exercise she needs and deserves. She is snapping because she is so frustrated and unhappy, and as you yourself say you dont feel confident with her, she will be picking up on this. When you say you 'try' to spend 30 minutes with her loose in house...does this mean that the rest of the time she is crated? This isnt a life for her really......my dog is always loose in the house - he is a member of my family! You shouldnt have to sit with the dog on a lead.

The fear of people issue probably wont be helped either as it doesnt sound like she actually comes across many other people or dogs in her day to day life.

Hope what I have written makes sense - apologies if it doesnt!!

[Austin and me]

No, you don't sound harsh and you're exactly right. Walking in the morning might work, if I can arrange to come in a little later - but she is calmer and the street is quieter. However, exercising a dog who you don't feel like you have control of is a little challenging. I haven't found the solution yet but I'm going to try the trail halter and see if gives me better stability. I'm not sure I know any mental stability games (but I'll look some up).

My concern about rehoming her is that she would be rehomed. Our Humane Society does keep all healthy dogs that they feel can be retrained and rehomed. I've been there and it's nicely kept place - much nicer than the city shelter from which she was adopted.

Yes, of course I'd rather have a dog that was a member of the family - I've seen her in attack mode (with my older dog who recently died) - this is what led to the limited time and, naturally, it doesn't help.

I appreciate your honesty. It's a tough decision.

thanks.

[emmabeth]

She really is lacking in exercise and this is going to be making every single other issue worse.

Try to get her out twice a day, even if it is only for ten/fifteen minutes.

The best way to go about this would be to use a secure harness on her body and her collar as well and have a lead to each. You can try the Gentle Leader type headcollars if you want (so harness on teh body, headcollar on the face) but I think you will find she will just fight it.

Whichever you pick though, collar or headcollar, use them in conjunction wtih two leads or a double ended lead so she cant hurt herself and shes secure.

Now, for the walks, follow the advice in the loose leash walking post, (its in the Articles section of the forum). Just set a timer and walk for 10 minutes, ANY time and I mean right from opening your front door, that she steps ahead of you, you about turn and walk the other way for a few paces.

You WILL go round and round in circles and you probably wont get off your own street - however what this does is it means shes GOT to concentrate on you and shes got to contain herself, which is HARD work (hence, 10/15 minute sessions). This will tire her out and calm her down.

You must remain consistant, you can practice it in the yard too and since it should be safer in the yard you can try it unmuzzled and keep some rewards in your pocket so that from time to time when she IS walking beside you, you can give her a treat to keep things interesting for her. Dont use the treat to lure her beside you though, just use it to reward when she is.

When shes crated at night, where is that? Given the length of time she spends alone, if she isnt already crated in your room I would put her there, dogs are social animals and she does spend a lot of time alone.

Honestly though, if you cannot make more time for her you do need to rehome her - her current lifestyle isnt fair and isnt helping her any.

[ckranz]

When we have a new person over, she's usually initially crated and will bark. I can take her out on the leash, but I have to work with both the person and Austin - if someone new walks toward her, she backs into me. If we're going to a new place, she will pull away - and tries to pull out of her collar - I bought a martingale collar which has been fairly successful, but if I'm taking her to boarding or to the vet, I have to also have a slip lead (and sometimes I also leave seat belt harness on) - most times, she has to be carried in to either place; she's 40 lbs, so I need help. The vet has had someone meet me outside and taken her in from there. Same with the boarding place.

A typical day -
7 - 7am -- she goes from her crate to a pen in the back yard.
6:30-7pm -- she comes inside or we try to spend a little time in the back yard
7 -7:30 pm -- dinner (in the crate)
7:30-8 or 8:30 - petting or time in the house (restricted rooms)
8:30pm - in the crate for night time

- one of the reasons I'm wrestling with trying to rehome her is that I am not home most of the day and, while sometimes, she is calm, by evening she's pretty wild and difficult to handle. She is crated at night and spends the day in her pen - I've been trying to save the money to enlarge it - it's 10x10 - I cannot leave her in the yard, because she or her neighbor dogs worry each other the wood fence and it's not secure - the neighbor german shepherd has broken one fence post and nearly come through and the fence has a loose post on the other side where there's a smaller dog.

-I'm fixing the loose board today and we'll try running the yard again. It's just hard to do with the german shepherd next door threatening and barking and banging on the fence.

- If I try to walk her, even around the yard - she will try to pull out of her collar (I know she wants a good run 8-() and, while I can usually maintain control, there are times when, if she's determined, I'm not sure I can control her. She will sit and wait for her collar, and even stay, but then it's off and pulling - I will stand my ground and hold her closer to me to keep her from running ahead - it takes a lot of strength.

- I have ordered a tracking harness someone said on here that they've used - I have been trying to get her used to a Gentle Leader - she will take it but then is annoyed with it - not even treats will distract her from wanting it off. I'd feel better about walking her if I could use a muzzle with her as well.

-I try to spend at least 30 minutes or more with her loose in the house, but that's not necessarily every night. If she's too wild for loose, I keep her on the leash just to have some petting time. She NEVER seems to relax unless she's in her crate.

Anytime we introduce play (I've worked with her on leave it with 2 stuffed toys), she gets very wild. I know she's lacking exercise, I'm just not confident I can handle her. My daughter used to walk her, but she's moved. And then, she didn't really enjoy it - she would get loose and most of the time, she would end up carrying her home.

-of late, she's also taken to jumping up and snapping at me - it hasn't resulted in any injuries - and, as long as she's on leash, she'll sit - sometimes, she has to sit and reset 5 or 6 times just on the way in the door!

- I'm not a particularly aggressive person, so I really have to work at being assertive with her - maybe that's a good thing, but I'm just not very comfortable or relaxed around this dog.

I took her to training for about 2 months this summer - I felt better with the trainer, but now, on my own, it's a bit tougher. I feel like I'm housing this dog, but not really enjoying her (or her me) as a companion.

Thanks -

Based on what you have said a shelter would most likely NOT consider her adoptable. If you re-home her you open yourself to a big liability should she continue the snapping or her behavior escalates. That being said and the full understanding that she is your responsibility you can begin to address each of her issues.

As far as being an aggressive person...being assertive and being aggressive are not the same thing. Using aggresion to try and manage a dog full of fear is a sure recipe for failure. You cannot use fear to manage a fearfull dog. Shy and timid dogs need good bonds with their owners. The process of bond building will bring you closer as companion.

As others have mentioned exercise is very important, both physical and mental. Equally important is planning for success. If walking around you neighborhood is too stressful for you dog, find another area that you can drive to and walk her there.

The Cautious Canine and Feisty Fido
Click to Calm
Control Unleashed
On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming signals

Read all these books and then re-read them...Personally I read 1 of them each month to refresh my memory. They are full of information and training games to play with your dog as well as tips for working specific issues with fearful pets.

I would refrain from the gentle leader as a means to control your dog while walking on leash. The presence of the leader on your dogs muzzule seems to add more stress than she can bear. Gentle Leader also makes a harness called the easy walk harness. As similar harness to the sensation harness. These are wonderful harnesses to help teach your dog to walk on a loose leash. There are several loose leash walking threads which contain great exercises to help you teach your dog to walk on a loose lead.

Training is all about planning for success and being proactive to prevent actions or activities from occuring. If your dog does not loke other dogs approaching within 10' then if you see a dog coming, give your dog the space she needs to be comfortable. As the other dog passes, heavily reward her non-reaction. Note if she is so focused on the dog and will not accept your reward you are too close.

Some games to play with your dog:

Magic Carpet: Find a baby blanket for this game. This blanket will be come a place to be relaxed and calm a place of security.

1. Place the blanket on the floor
2. Allow your dog to discover it. Upon discovery mark and reward.
3. Mark and reward everything your dog does with the blanket...looks at blanket reward, sniffs blanket reward, touches blanket reward: The period for this step is about 45 seconds. At 45 seconds pick up the blanket and move it to a new location and repeat.
4. It should not take long for your dog to learn that seeking out this blanket gets a good reward. Once you have reach this stage its time to shape your dog's behavior to settle and relax on the blanket. This is done by repeating step 3 but holding on to the treats until specific behaviors are offered:
A. 1 paw on blanket. Only when your dog puts 1 paw on the blank receives the mark and reward. When your dog beigns to offer this as the first behavior when the blanket is dropped move on.
B. 2 Paws on blanket as per A
C. 3 paws on blanket as per A
D. All paws on blanket as per A
Check point. No matter where you put the blanket in the house your dog seeks it out to put all 4 paws (stand) on the blanket.
E. Hold out for your dog to sit on the blanket as the first behavior offered. If your dog knows sit do not cue him, let him figure it out.
Check point. If he will not offer a sit on the 3rd attempt, help him out by holding the treat up and slightly over his head. Once the but hits the blanket reward heavily.
F. Hold out for your dog to down using E as a guidline to to help ensure success.

Once your dog can complete the above you have two options...increase duration of the desired behavior, increase the distractions

For duration:
Initially you start with a rapid rate of return for a specific duration....start with 5-6 seconds (10 treats in 5 seconds) and then allow a break and repeat. As your dog begins holding the behavior, slowly reduce both the number of treats and increase the time between treats. Also increase the full duration slowly.

For distractions: Don't assume that because your dog knows how to play this game with a particular distraction and each distraction is different. Shorten your duration and start with small distractions and repeat from 1 paw to a down with each distractions. Note friends coming over is considered a distraction. Also make sure if using friends to have them present a 45 degree side view and to not approach her. Have them instead toss treats to her. Keep your friend distant enough that she is willing to interact with the blanket. Between sessions have your friend out of sight.

Shy and fearful dogs take a long time to generalize so be patient....Mine took nearly 4 years of work and the work still continues. His progress is nothing short of miraculous, but it takes time and patience and commitment.

Once you have mastered the game inside, take it outside. Take it to the car. Take it to the parking lot at your vet. Take it to the vets office and play in the lobby or out front. (For the vet's office, let the staff know ahead of time). I spent a lot of time with my dog Khan playing in the vet lobby. Today Khan loves going to the vet and relaxes on the exam table....I have been asked to stand my dog so my vet could listen to his heart and lungs.

Training sessions and time playing magic carpet should only be 3-5 minutes in length and between sessions you should have a good physical play break. This game is an example of mental stimulation.

Another game to play is 101 things. It is a free shaping game that you can use to introduce anything to your dog and reward his curiosity. Let me know and I can describe the game in full, but I believe its on this forum somewhere if you do a search.

[Mattie]

When we have a new person over, she's usually initially crated and will bark. I can take her out on the leash, but I have to work with both the person and Austin - if someone new walks toward her, she backs into me. If we're going to a new place, she will pull away - and tries to pull out of her collar - I bought a martingale collar which has been fairly successful, but if I'm taking her to boarding or to the vet, I have to also have a slip lead (and sometimes I also leave seat belt harness on) - most times, she has to be carried in to either place; she's 40 lbs, so I need help. The vet has had someone meet me outside and taken her in from there. Same with the boarding place.

You are probably going too fast for her, she sounds frightened of people and is looking to you to protect her, she is under exercised and no way of getting rid of her excess energy. She is a time bomb at the moment.

A typical day -
7 - 7am -- she goes from her crate to a pen in the back yard.
6:30-7pm -- she comes inside or we try to spend a little time in the back yard
7 -7:30 pm -- dinner (in the crate)
7:30-8 or 8:30 - petting or time in the house (restricted rooms)
8:30pm - in the crate for night time

Put yourself in her position, how would you feel if this was how you spent every day? If she has kibble she can have breakfast in a buster cube, this will be a game to her, she will have to work to get her breakfast and it will take some time for her to eat it all.

She also needs a walk before her breakfast, just a small one, 10 minute loose lease walking, this is how to do it viewtopic.php?f=20&t=858. She needs a good harness on, do a search for Walkeez or fleece harnesses, the Walkeeze is strong and comfortable for a dog, quite a few on here use them including me. Practicing the Loose Lead Walking does tire dogs out. She will cope on her own a lot better if she is exercised before you leave her, add the Buster cube and she will be in Paradise to what she is getting now.

When you get home again 10 to 15 minutes loose lead walking, days you are home fit in another session so that she learns to walk properly on a lead so she can go for better walks. Mind games will also help when you are together of an evening also clicker training viewtopic.php?f=20&t=513, doesn't matter what you teach her as long as you do. If you are too tired to work with her, too bad, she has been on her own all day and needs you to give her lots of quality time.

Does she have to be fed in her crate? She spends a lot of time in her crate or pen.

Being in the crate fro 8pm to 7 or 7.30am is a very long time, is this necessary? Where is the crate? She is spending all day and all night on her own shut away from everything.

- one of the reasons I'm wrestling with trying to rehome her is that I am not home most of the day and, while sometimes, she is calm, by evening she's pretty wild and difficult to handle. She is crated at night and spends the day in her pen - I've been trying to save the money to enlarge it - it's 10x10 - I cannot leave her in the yard, because she or her neighbor dogs worry each other the wood fence and it's not secure - the neighbor german shepherd has broken one fence post and nearly come through and the fence has a loose post on the other side where there's a smaller dog.

m fixing the loose board today and we'll try running the yard again. It's just hard to do with the german shepherd next door threatening and barking and banging on the fence.

At the moment very few people will take her one, she is under exercised and has had no training, you need to train her and give her a chance of a good home. If your neighbour's dog is this bad I don't think I would trust any fence, the dog's owner should control their dog but we all know that doesn't happen.

- If I try to walk her, even around the yard - she will try to pull out of her collar (I know she wants a good run 8-() and, while I can usually maintain control, there are times when, if she's determined, I'm not sure I can control her. She will sit and wait for her collar, and even stay, but then it's off and pulling - I will stand my ground and hold her closer to me to keep her from running ahead - it takes a lot of strength.

- I have ordered a tracking harness someone said on here that they've used - I have been trying to get her used to a Gentle Leader - she will take it but then is annoyed with it - not even treats will distract her from wanting it off. I'd feel better about walking her if I could use a muzzle with her as well.

Those tracking harnesses are good, it will give you more control and you can also use the top strap when necessary. Pulling on a collar can damage a dog's neck, trachea and larynx, a lot of dogs have damaged necks and their owners don't know it. The loose lead walking will help her, you will be walking up and down the same short part of the road and will be able to keep her under control, this will also tire her out.

When you are taking her further than your road, you need a double ended lead or 2 leads, one clipped to the harness, you walk her on this, the other to the collar, this is loose intil you need the extra control. The collar willl control the neck and head, the harness her body.

-I try to spend at least 30 minutes or more with her loose in the house, but that's not necessarily every night. If she's too wild for loose, I keep her on the leash just to have some petting time. She NEVER seems to relax unless she's in her crate.

Anytime we introduce play (I've worked with her on leave it with 2 stuffed toys), she gets very wild. I know she's lacking exercise, I'm just not confident I can handle her. My daughter used to walk her, but she's moved. And then, she didn't really enjoy it - she would get loose and most of the time, she would end up carrying her home.

-of late, she's also taken to jumping up and snapping at me - it hasn't resulted in any injuries - and, as long as she's on leash, she'll sit - sometimes, she has to sit and reset 5 or 6 times just on the way in the door!

She is wild because she isn't exercised, she has a lot of excess energy which she has to get rid of, unless she does she will get worse and end up doing serious damage to you. You are asking far too much of her.

- I'm not a particularly aggressive person, so I really have to work at being assertive with her - maybe that's a good thing, but I'm just not very comfortable or relaxed around this dog.

You are mixing up aggressive and assertive, they don't go together, an assertive person is not aggressive, think back to when you were at school, the teachers who kept control of the class were not aggressive, they were assertive, they quietly demanded and got the class to do what they wanted and seemed not to try. You won't get anywhere with your dog unless you exercise her, she will just get worse and eventually you will have to have her pts because she has become dangerous.

I took her to training for about 2 months this summer - I felt better with the trainer, but now, on my own, it's a bit tougher. I feel like I'm housing this dog, but not really enjoying her (or her me) as a companion.

Thanks -

Can you tell us how this trainer told you to train her please? Until you exercise your dog, nothing will get better.

[Austin and me]

I appreciate all of your suggestions and recommendations for books/devices. We had a fun time tonight with the treats in a plastic container game - so much that we repeated it several times with part of her dinner. She got the idea of the top popping off pretty quickly. Good way to recycle plastic containers.

I DO KNOW she is not getting enough exercise. That is what I'm trying to work up to and/or find some other ways to work with her because she is VERY DIFFICULT for me to walk. I am not physically strong enough to restrain her if I am not able to distract her, so I need to find some other ways to work with her to help calm her. The trainer and I were walking on making sure I could be successful at distracting her when we met with other dogs before we hit the street.

The short walks in the backyard seem to be the best bet for now - and I'll definitely try to leave her with more things to amuse her/challenge her mentally during the day - I found a beanie ball - similar idea to a buster cube.

I'm sorry I left you with the impression that I thought I had to be aggressive - in the mean sense - what I meant was is that I am not particularly competitive or high energy myself - so we are a bit of a mismatch. I allowed my daughter to choose what she thought she wanted, when I should have been more assertive in choosing a breed that would have complemented our other dog and me (since I've ended up with her anyway). I can't change past mistakes. I can only try to move ahead in the best of interest of this particular dog.

I do thank you all for your input and ideas.

[Mattie]

Just done a reply, before I was able to send it Bonnie decided to have some input with her nose and I have lost the post.

This is the internet, we can't see each other's body language and like dogs we communicate with our bodies as well as voices. Many of our members are from all over the world and English isn't their first language so we have to make sure what we write is very clear so there can be no misunderstandings. This can come over as attacking you when we are not, stay long enough and you will see us really tell owners they are not looking after their dogs properly We know you care and what to give her a better life, you wouldn't be here if you didn't. We also have to take into account the members who read these posts but don't post, they look through all the threads trying to find information to help their dogs.

I am pleased you both enjoyed the plastic container game, just be careful you don't over do it and she gets fed up, better to stop when she is still keen. Do a search for mind games, there are quite a lot on here which may help, I did look in the articles but couldn't find them, maybe someone should start a thread just for this. You can also put an agility course up in your yard, this will really be fun for her, there is a thread somewhere were people have put up how they have made these courses out of things they have round their homes.

You don't have to be strong to walk a dog, many on here are disabled and have problems walking and their balance, add a dog to that and there could be bigger problems. This is why we are so keen on training dogs to walk on a loose lead, our dogs have to for our safety. The problem with distracting is that sometimes we have the dog too close and it won't work, we need to get the dog away from the situation as fast as we can. With a trail harness you will be able to get hold of the harness to hold her, with a lead clipped to her collar as well you should have a lot of control.

Put an agility course in the backyard, it will help with her energy levels, the beanie ball will also help.

I'm sorry I left you with the impression that I thought I had to be aggressive - in the mean sense - what I meant was is that I am not particularly competitive or high energy myself - so we are a bit of a mismatch.

You are in the right place, many of us are like you, not competitive or have a lot of energy, many are disabled and not fit but we still give our dogs what they need. Even high energy dogs like Collies don't need to be walked for 8 hours a day, by playing mental games and have training sessions, the physical exercise can be reduced greatly. I find my dogs are better if they have a short training session before going on their walk.

I allowed my daughter to choose what she thought she wanted, when I should have been more assertive in choosing a breed that would have complemented our other dog and me (since I've ended up with her anyway). I can't change past mistakes. I can only try to move ahead in the best of interest of this particular dog.

We are brainwashed to some extent by the way we are supposed to train our dogs, training is regimented with no freedom to do things another way, very few dogs become well trained. It is only by breaking away from this and using our brains to work out how to get what we want without causing the dogs and us stress do we really make progress. By starting afresh you will have a good chance of getting the dog you want, also change the commands and reteach her, the old words will have associations that she may be best leaving in the past, she may have learnt she can ignore them which you don't want. Often by changing the command words the dog makes quick progress especially if you clicker train them. You don't need a clicker to train dogs that way, a clicker to to tell the dog he has done what you wanted him to and a reward is coming. Dogs pick this up very quickly

Please stay with us and we will get your there, if we sound as if we are attacking you we are not, we are just trying to make things clear so you can understand them easily. Nothing worse than trying to train a dog when you are not clear about what you are doing.

[Austin and me]

Yes, one of the limitations of text only - I really do appreciate the honesty, it's just a little painful and sensitive at the moment; it's been a long road with some upsetting events, but already a bit more play and changing where she eats.

I received my EZ Trainer lead today - I think that's sort of what was described on here. It clips to the collar and has a ring on a piece that slips along the lead. The lead then goes around the chest (or theoretical waist) and back through the ring. I'm a little concerned because it keeps slipping too low and I don't want it to hurt her - she's barrel chested and then very slim, so it's hard to keep it around her chest (and where in the heck IS her waist ??) - but it's a good example of taking things slowly and perseverance.

At first, even though I went slow and let her smell it and put it on in the house - she REALLY didn't like it when she got outside and wanted it off! So, back in the house quickly and off it was (we were backyard training, of course - less stressful). We played a few games, and when she seemed a little more relaxed, I had her sit with it on for a bit. Then, like magic (except for the slipping part - I kept having her sit to adjust the leash around her body), we walked around the yard pretty nicely. Inside to relax and play fetch and play and relax (mostly). We'll try it again in the morning. I'm still not taking her on the street until I figure out how to have to see a few dogs and use some of Victoria's tricks on associating that with something positive. And I'll try to get a friend to go with me - someone she's somewhat used to seeing.

She still jumps on the couch with her toy, but hustles off (mostly) at "off" - and picked after doing trade offs with different toys, decided she like 'fetch' - she has a little trouble with 'drop it' - but actually got a bit better. That I can pet her when she's eating and playing with a toy is a BIG step.

Little steps - some progress. We have chewing issues, but I think if we can tackle the walking stuff first, so many things will be easier.

Just wanted to make sure you all knew you do good work! (but hopefully you know that already!)

Night -

[ckranz]

It sounds like you hae take the first steps on the right path. It will be a long path, but I believe you can do it. Just remember if things are getting frustrating, stop, take a beath and examine your training plan.

For leash walking a couple of techniques I have used which may help:

Establish a reward zone. As you are standing, visualize a box about 1 foot in front of you. The box is as wide as your shoulders and coming to the tips of your feet.
Using your best treats...like cheese, left over steak. Wait for your dog to enter the box...mark and reward. Turn 45 degrees left or right...not your imaginary box moves with you. Let your dog find the imaginary box againg Mark and reward

As your dog learns that moving with you earn treats increase how much you turn...vary the direction left and right 90 degrees 180 degrees.

The goal here is a dog that strive to move his head into the box.

ONce you are at this point you can start playing the canine waltz..
Just as rotating moves the box, so does side stepping. Start with single steps left and right. Work you way to several steps. as your dog stays with you work until you can turn the direction you are side stepping and walk forward...again providing a high rate of return for staying in the box.

The beauty of this exercise is it can be played both on and off leash and it teaches your dog to move with you.This is the essence of loose leash walking.

[emmabeth]

If shes that reactive to other dogs and you really worry about controlling her...

The 'fix' for this is, alongside increasing her exercise (mental and physical) to take evasive action wherever possible, keeping strange dogs sufficiently far away that she CAN listen to you at least enough to take a treat from you.

Can you sit on your front doorstep with her, and reward her as things go by? Then work up to getting to the sidewalk... reward her for seeing the world go by from there.

Tiny little goals - find some tiny weeny level of success and build on that, everything needs foundations after all!

[Mattie]

That I can pet her when she's eating and playing with a toy is a BIG step.

Stop petting her when she is eating, it will stress her out more, she should be able to eat in peace. If anyone tried to pet me when I was eating I would take their hand off. This is the quickest way of getting a dog to become food aggressive by not leaving them to eat in peace.

You will get there, it does take time and work but by going at your dog's pace, you do eventually get the dog we want.