I have an 11-month old mix breed (possibly a pitt bull mix) who has lately become very hard to handle.
This is how I have tried training her to "come":
-I have a 20 foot lead out back for her since our yard is not fenced in. I will hook her up to the lead and start by kneeling down (since I have always heard this is a "friendly" posture to dogs). I'll wait until she starts walking/running towards me and say "Cadence here!" and use the clicker I bought. Once she gets to me, I treat her. She'll quickly get the hang of it and will end up coming to me each time. After a while, I will unhook her from the lead and after two times of saying "Cadence here!", she takes off running around the neighborhood. It's as if she knows exactly when she is off the lead and just refuses to listen when she's off it! Any ideas as to why she does this and what I can do about it??
Also, she has become VERY bad on a leash.. I had to get a metal leash so she would stop biting the nylon one we had, but she pulls very badly. We've tried getting the no pull harnesses but none fit her properly since she is "inbetween" sizes (it is either way too tight on her body or way to loose on her chest). Also, if she does not feel like walking, she will tug sideways and jump around trying to slip our of her collar (or atleast that's why I think she does that).
She listens to every other command I have taught her and learns VERY quickly as I taught her to "play dead" in one day. I just do not know what to do about the recall and the walking. I would try obedience classes but the only one near where I live is the local PetSmart and we've asked friends who have done it with PetSmart and said it was a waste of money and the people were very unprofessional..
Need help with RECALL and leash training!!
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Smillin'Sammy
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- Joined: Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:30 pm
Re: Need help with RECALL and leash training!!
First off, even if she seems fine on leash, she does know when she's off lead. Try doing more to strengthen her recall... it will never be perfect, but you can get more effective by doing it in the house and on leash (when you're walking is a good time). Keep strengthening it, and never use it off leash unless you have to.forkin14 wrote: After a while, I will unhook her from the lead and after two times of saying "Cadence here!", she takes off running around the neighborhood. It's as if she knows exactly when she is off the lead and just refuses to listen when she's off it! Any ideas as to why she does this and what I can do about it??
Also, she has become VERY bad on a leash.. I had to get a metal leash so she would stop biting the nylon one we had, but she pulls very badly. We've tried getting the no pull harnesses but none fit her properly since she is "inbetween" sizes (it is either way too tight on her body or way to loose on her chest). Also, if she does not feel like walking, she will tug sideways and jump around trying to slip our of her collar (or atleast that's why I think she does that).
As for the pulling, a good technique is to stop when she pulls, then continue when she stops. Keep doing this, she'll get the message quickly. There are some more tips for this in a sticky.
I would recommend getting Victoria's book, it cover both these in depth.
Recall like any other trained behavior has several contexts each with its own level of difficulty. reacall in your living room on or off lead is liek preschool level, where as being called off chasing a rabbit in an open field is college or beyond level.
To build a solid recall you need to start in easier contexts and wait until you have nearly 100% reliability before moving to a new context. (A new context would be changing a parameter like removing the leash or changing location.
As for the kneeling down I have found it better to position myself to face the direction I want my dogs to move and even take a few steps in that direction.
ONe exercise to add in before being off leash would be kow as a restrained recall. You can either use a helper or do this on your own:
Helper method:
1. Have a helper hold your dogs leash. The helper is not to do anything to distract, or interact with your dog for this exercise. They get to play tree.
2. take a few steps away from your dog and pull out is favorite toy/treats. Wave them and let your dog know you have the good stuff or the fun toy...squeak squeakers, shake tugs etc.. Your dog should be at the end of his leash trying to get to you. For this exercise pulling is what you want.
3. Cue your recall and have the handler release (or give slack on a long line to be able to reach you).
4. Play and give treats when your dog reaches you...party time.
Slowly work at increase distance, slowly add in distractions (start close again when initially adding new distractions).
No helper method.
1. Wrap you long line around a post or small tree that your dog will not pull over. You should be able to easily move your leash around the post.
2 With your dog on one side of the post and you holding the line, take a few steps away and bring out that favorite toy or treat.
3 You want your dog excited and wanting to get that toy or treat so pulling is a good thing in this exercise.
4. Cue your recall and relax slack or release the line so your dog can reach your for his treat or toy.
5. Same rules for changing contexts (distance and distraction)
Work each context until you have between 90-100% reliability before moving to the next context. If your dog does not give you attention or focus, do not cue the recall and move to a simpler context.
You really need to plan for success and work at things you can be successful to build a solid foundation.
To build a solid recall you need to start in easier contexts and wait until you have nearly 100% reliability before moving to a new context. (A new context would be changing a parameter like removing the leash or changing location.
As for the kneeling down I have found it better to position myself to face the direction I want my dogs to move and even take a few steps in that direction.
ONe exercise to add in before being off leash would be kow as a restrained recall. You can either use a helper or do this on your own:
Helper method:
1. Have a helper hold your dogs leash. The helper is not to do anything to distract, or interact with your dog for this exercise. They get to play tree.
2. take a few steps away from your dog and pull out is favorite toy/treats. Wave them and let your dog know you have the good stuff or the fun toy...squeak squeakers, shake tugs etc.. Your dog should be at the end of his leash trying to get to you. For this exercise pulling is what you want.
3. Cue your recall and have the handler release (or give slack on a long line to be able to reach you).
4. Play and give treats when your dog reaches you...party time.
Slowly work at increase distance, slowly add in distractions (start close again when initially adding new distractions).
No helper method.
1. Wrap you long line around a post or small tree that your dog will not pull over. You should be able to easily move your leash around the post.
2 With your dog on one side of the post and you holding the line, take a few steps away and bring out that favorite toy or treat.
3 You want your dog excited and wanting to get that toy or treat so pulling is a good thing in this exercise.
4. Cue your recall and relax slack or release the line so your dog can reach your for his treat or toy.
5. Same rules for changing contexts (distance and distraction)
Work each context until you have between 90-100% reliability before moving to the next context. If your dog does not give you attention or focus, do not cue the recall and move to a simpler context.
You really need to plan for success and work at things you can be successful to build a solid foundation.
Go here for Mattie's loose leash method. I swear by its effectiveness. The no-pull harnesses are just management tools to aid in teaching how to stop pulling. The harness alone will only stop a dog from pulling the first few times you try it, then he'll get used to the sensation of having his legs raised or whatever your particular harness does and be able to pull against it again. I used the method below and my dog had 95% good leash manners after about two weeks. I say 95% because he's a lunger at cats and squirrels. 
http://www.victoriastilwell.com/phpBB2/ ... .php?t=858
Go here for Mattie's recall method. I live in the city so I can't practice this, not even in parks because the leash law is in effect in parks until late at night and really early in the morning. But a lot of people train recall this way.
http://www.victoriastilwell.com/phpBB2/ ... php?t=3534
If you do a few practice recalls then let him off leash it won't work. It's like giving a kid two M&Ms at a time then dumping out a whole bag and telling him he can only take two because that's what you taught him - he's definitely going to try to grab handfuls. So for the dog don't give her too much freedom yet because every time you do and she runs away from you, you have to start from square one.
Also if your dog has learned to ignore "here" you might want to try changing your recall word.
Good luck and let us know how it goes! There's lots of great advice from ckranz too and I'm sure others will have comments for you as well.
http://www.victoriastilwell.com/phpBB2/ ... .php?t=858
Go here for Mattie's recall method. I live in the city so I can't practice this, not even in parks because the leash law is in effect in parks until late at night and really early in the morning. But a lot of people train recall this way.
http://www.victoriastilwell.com/phpBB2/ ... php?t=3534
If you do a few practice recalls then let him off leash it won't work. It's like giving a kid two M&Ms at a time then dumping out a whole bag and telling him he can only take two because that's what you taught him - he's definitely going to try to grab handfuls. So for the dog don't give her too much freedom yet because every time you do and she runs away from you, you have to start from square one.
Also if your dog has learned to ignore "here" you might want to try changing your recall word.
Good luck and let us know how it goes! There's lots of great advice from ckranz too and I'm sure others will have comments for you as well.
