My 2-year-old JRT mix (a rescue back in October) and I have been attending obedience classes at one of the local pet store chains. I originally signed him up as a means of providing him with some socialization because I am single, and we live on an island that is mostly deserted during the winter. (There are a few families that live here year-round, but very few.) The beginner's class included loose lead walking, sit, stay, wait, leave it and watch me. He did so well that I decided to sign him up for the intermediate class to continue the mental stimulation. Last week was our 2nd week of intermediate, and the lesson was 'Heel." Within the 1/2 hour span of class time, we were not only practicing heel in the training enclosure, but the instructor brought us out into the aisles of the store to practice as well. There were many people there with dogs in tow, so it is no wonder Rusty was having some trouble. The instructor's suggestion was that I should buy a 4 foot leash for heelwork. To quote: "That way Rusty will know when he has to work and when he can just walk." My gut tells me that there may be times when we are out for 'just a walk,' when I might need him to come to heel. Am I overthinking this, or should I be running as fast and as far as I can in the opposite direction? We ARE using positive methods, but I could probably do as well on my own with that kind of advice.
Your thoughts on this are appreciated.
What would you think of this trainer?
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I'm glad you guys enjoyed your first class. We took our classes at the local SPCA and the training sounds very similar. From what you mentioned there doesn't seem to be anything specifically wrong with what the trainer said.
We were told we may want to use a different leash for heel to make it easier for the dog to remember while learning, however this was not required just a suggestion.
It does seem kind of quick to have you work with distractions and it is understandable your dog would be distracted. When we took our class we did practice sessions in class and were advised to practice in a variety of places.
Personally I didn't use a separate leash and we still practice at random places and times. I do not expect my dog to walk at a heel at all times. She walks nicely on leash and I ask her to heel when we may encounter something that might frighten her or when we need to cross the street or walk next to somebody else.
Good luck with the rest of your classes.
We were told we may want to use a different leash for heel to make it easier for the dog to remember while learning, however this was not required just a suggestion.
It does seem kind of quick to have you work with distractions and it is understandable your dog would be distracted. When we took our class we did practice sessions in class and were advised to practice in a variety of places.
Personally I didn't use a separate leash and we still practice at random places and times. I do not expect my dog to walk at a heel at all times. She walks nicely on leash and I ask her to heel when we may encounter something that might frighten her or when we need to cross the street or walk next to somebody else.
Good luck with the rest of your classes.
The system I use it that when my dogs are on-lead, they walk politely to heel on a loose lead. When they are off-lead, they can be a reasonable distance from me, pause to sniff and piddle and generally do what dogs do.
I am lucky in that my dogs are able to have a great deal of off-lead work. Because I am not steady on my legs I never want a dog that is going to stop or pull or dive across me suddenly when on-lead. If the path were slippery, that could mean a fall for me.
Personally, I am not happy with the concept of a dog "working" on this lead and "not working" on that one. As far as I am concerned, a dog should always be polite. We may start life able-bodied but it only takes a small change in circumstances and we are left having to be more cautious. It is better IMO if the dog already behaves so that it is easy to walk.
But your dog needs to do what suits you not what suits me, or an instructor, or a friend or anyone else.
Congratulations on having what is clearly a very obliging dog.
If you don't like anything your trainer does or suggests - change your trainer!
There are plenty of us about.
I am lucky in that my dogs are able to have a great deal of off-lead work. Because I am not steady on my legs I never want a dog that is going to stop or pull or dive across me suddenly when on-lead. If the path were slippery, that could mean a fall for me.
Personally, I am not happy with the concept of a dog "working" on this lead and "not working" on that one. As far as I am concerned, a dog should always be polite. We may start life able-bodied but it only takes a small change in circumstances and we are left having to be more cautious. It is better IMO if the dog already behaves so that it is easy to walk.
But your dog needs to do what suits you not what suits me, or an instructor, or a friend or anyone else.
Congratulations on having what is clearly a very obliging dog.
If you don't like anything your trainer does or suggests - change your trainer!
There are plenty of us about.A dog is never bad or naughty - it is simply being a dog
SET YOURSELF UP FOR SUCCESS
SET YOURSELF UP FOR SUCCESS
i never ask my dogs to walk to heel, I do expect the to walk on a loose lead no matter how long or short the lead is. I can use any length of lead from 3/2ft, to a long line. I will also shorten a long lead if I need my dog to be closer to me and if the lead is short, they walk naturally close to me on a loose lead.
There are posts in Methods on how to teach your dog to walk on a loose lead.
There are posts in Methods on how to teach your dog to walk on a loose lead.
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I used the 'short' leash method for training both of my Shelties and it worked well for them. First thing I considered was the dog's interest & behavior in our surroundings, whether it was responsive to my voice and body language while on loose lead. My first Sheltie did great on loose lead and only required a few days of short lead training for him to understand that I wanted him by my side when we were on public streets and at command when I deemed it necessary. My second Sheltie was more stubborn and easily distracted to the point of being completely oblivious to me & my commands by things around him, particularly other dogs. His short lead training time was extensive, but it did get the message across that there was to be no pulling, lunging, etc. Also, a 4' lead comes in handy for situations where the dog might be a bit stressed or God forbid panic at something. It's much easier to keep them in control on the 4' lead in certain situations.
I'd say go ahead with the plan, but some one on one time, away from the group training, with the short lead would probably be beneficial. I found the ideal training area for such things including off-lead training was an enclosed tennis court that isn't in use. Fences are high and the gates are usually secure so both of you can feel more comfortable while he is learning what he needs to do.
I'd say go ahead with the plan, but some one on one time, away from the group training, with the short lead would probably be beneficial. I found the ideal training area for such things including off-lead training was an enclosed tennis court that isn't in use. Fences are high and the gates are usually secure so both of you can feel more comfortable while he is learning what he needs to do.
Like many things in dog training there are varying levels of compliance and expectations on leash walking. With formal obedience and rally, there are very strct guidelines on your dogs position when walking. Many that compete have there dogs trained to maintain eye contact while walking in a heel.
Where your dog walks is entirely up to you and what you are comfortable with. Increasing precision is entirely technique, motivation, and repetetive training games. Training should always be fun.
Increasing motivation:
This could be using higher value rewards for narrowing criteria. A wooden spoon dipped in peanut butter held just above where you want your dog's head position when heeling. When your dog is in the correct position, mark and reward by dipping the spoon down for a quick lick. repeat.
Another factor is level of distraction. In a confined training area, there may be less distrations much like being around your home, whereas being on the street, shopping, at the park etc...has a multitude of distractions. Just because your dog can heel perfectly around your living room, does not mean he can heel walking down the sidewalk.
Increase your level of distraction slowly, and keep the rewards as high and more frequent when a distraction occurs.
If using a clicker, the technique comes in knowing not only what to click, but when to click.
You have allow your dog to go sniff a tree, but its time to move on. You give you cue and start moving forward. The leash goes taught, and ten relaxes as your dog comes into walking position.
What to you click?
There are several things possible:
response to cue to move on.
response to applying pressure of a taught leash.
dog coming into heel position.
In the above case I would be clicking the response to pressure from the leash. Note pressure is not a tug, but mearly you are walking forward. Its your dogs response to gentle pressure being applied.
When to click?
Once you have decided on one of the above, you need to click during the behavior. If you miss and are late the reward is for the behavior you clicked, not the behavior you intended to click.
The timing for responding to pressure would be the very second the leash goes from being taught you dogs head turning towards you and the leash beginning to relax.
If you are early you are rewarding the sniffing (not necessarily a bad thing, but it is not what you are intending to reward). If you are late, you are rewarding basically a recall...again not a bad thing, but it is not what you were training.
Following the above, you can train your dog to walk however you wish, forward, backward, sidesteps, allow for exploration etc...or even heeling as percision as some of the videos I believe Mattie posted on leash walking.
Where your dog walks is entirely up to you and what you are comfortable with. Increasing precision is entirely technique, motivation, and repetetive training games. Training should always be fun.
Increasing motivation:
This could be using higher value rewards for narrowing criteria. A wooden spoon dipped in peanut butter held just above where you want your dog's head position when heeling. When your dog is in the correct position, mark and reward by dipping the spoon down for a quick lick. repeat.
Another factor is level of distraction. In a confined training area, there may be less distrations much like being around your home, whereas being on the street, shopping, at the park etc...has a multitude of distractions. Just because your dog can heel perfectly around your living room, does not mean he can heel walking down the sidewalk.
Increase your level of distraction slowly, and keep the rewards as high and more frequent when a distraction occurs.
If using a clicker, the technique comes in knowing not only what to click, but when to click.
You have allow your dog to go sniff a tree, but its time to move on. You give you cue and start moving forward. The leash goes taught, and ten relaxes as your dog comes into walking position.
What to you click?
There are several things possible:
response to cue to move on.
response to applying pressure of a taught leash.
dog coming into heel position.
In the above case I would be clicking the response to pressure from the leash. Note pressure is not a tug, but mearly you are walking forward. Its your dogs response to gentle pressure being applied.
When to click?
Once you have decided on one of the above, you need to click during the behavior. If you miss and are late the reward is for the behavior you clicked, not the behavior you intended to click.
The timing for responding to pressure would be the very second the leash goes from being taught you dogs head turning towards you and the leash beginning to relax.
If you are early you are rewarding the sniffing (not necessarily a bad thing, but it is not what you are intending to reward). If you are late, you are rewarding basically a recall...again not a bad thing, but it is not what you were training.
Following the above, you can train your dog to walk however you wish, forward, backward, sidesteps, allow for exploration etc...or even heeling as percision as some of the videos I believe Mattie posted on leash walking.