hi
ill start by telling you the background story as may help
i lived with my now husbands family since 2006 they had one dog called milo already (he's now 12 years old) my husbands dad was a stay at home husband as he wasnt able to work due to his brain tumour he looked after everything and took milo for a walk twice a day etc.... anyway aroun may 06 my husbands sister who also lived there persuaded her mum and dad to get a puppay and that she would look after it ie take it for walks feed it toilet train it etc..... so they got a border terrier called jess anyway she didnt do a thing for her didnt even take her for a walk was left up to her dad.... in may 07 hubbys dad suffered a brain haemorrage and was rushed to hospital where they decided to operate to take tumour out so june 07 he went in for this op.... basically to shorten the story he never came back was in nursing home unable to move talk etc.... he died in 09 but while all this was going on no one took the dogs for a walk and they were shut in house for 10 hours a day while we all worked. i fell pregnant with my first son erly 08 and had him dec 08 so i was off work but couldnt take dogs out with pram as they pull on lead. i had my 2nd son march 11 and my hubbys mum bought us a house as the house was getting too packed... so we have been lumbered with the dogs due to the fact im at home most of the time with kids which i didnt mind wasnt going to have the dogs shut in all day every day... i told my hubby we will start taking dogs for walk. which we did the older dog milo is great doesnt pull ok with other dogs etc.... ive had to stop taking him due to vets advice as arthritis is really bad (so bad within a year he wont be able to walk).
jess is the problem
she pulls on lead and when she sees an other dog bigger than he or smaller than her she goes absolutely balisitic she jumps, barks, flips basically hard to control shes even got out of her harness. i dont think she is aggressive and actually attack the other dogs but its as if she doesnt know what to do.
i told my friends brother who is a dog trainer he told me to pull her in close and walk in a different direction but i cant do that as she is strong. even my hubby has had to sit on her to stop her moving while dogs go past. Jess even got out of her harness to bark at a dog in its own garden minding his own business.
ive taken her to the field with my son and she was the only dog there so let her off the lead and every few meters i would call her back and she would come so her recall is fine but is a completely different dog around other dogs
i want to be able to take her out (when milo has gone) to take kids to school and other places etc.....
i feel its my fault they werent taken out when hubbys dad first when into hospital but hubby keeps saying jess especially isnt our dog and its his sisters fault
i just dont know where to start any suggestions or questions....
thanks guys
sadie x
dogs behaviour
Moderators: emmabeth, BoardHost
Re: dogs behaviour
Doesn't matter whose 'fault' it was - now we need to move on and sort it. 
You'll be delighted to know it's really simple to do.
Have a look at our pinned thread 'Loose Leash Walking' in the Training section and it will tell you how to train the loose lead walk. Check out our vast number of threads about reactive dogs - we have many people here managing reactive dogs and they have all been where you are now. Jacksdad has some good information to share, as does Ladybug, but there are lots more.
When you've had a good look through all this research, come back to us with your questions and we will help.
BTW there are many good treatments for arthritis in dogs so no need to write your 'oldie' off yet. Even ten minutes of walking twice a day makes an old dog much happier, and happy dogs tend to be well-behaved dogs.
Please would you give us their daily routine, and then we can help more.
You'll be delighted to know it's really simple to do.Have a look at our pinned thread 'Loose Leash Walking' in the Training section and it will tell you how to train the loose lead walk. Check out our vast number of threads about reactive dogs - we have many people here managing reactive dogs and they have all been where you are now. Jacksdad has some good information to share, as does Ladybug, but there are lots more.
When you've had a good look through all this research, come back to us with your questions and we will help.
BTW there are many good treatments for arthritis in dogs so no need to write your 'oldie' off yet. Even ten minutes of walking twice a day makes an old dog much happier, and happy dogs tend to be well-behaved dogs.
Please would you give us their daily routine, and then we can help more.
A dog is never bad or naughty - it is simply being a dog
SET YOURSELF UP FOR SUCCESS
SET YOURSELF UP FOR SUCCESS
Re: dogs behaviour
sounds just like my dog who is a terrier cross.
So your friends brother is mostly the right track...see dog go a different direction. As Nettles likes to remind us, we are taller than our dogs, so we generally can see the other dog BEFORE our dog does and starts reacting. it does take a little practice, but you will soon know just by how someone is holding them self off in the distance if they have a dog with them or not. Of course if the dog is big enough you will just be able to see the dog. You also learn to listen for the jingle of leashes and collars as a clue as to if a dog is up ahead or not.
All reactive dogs have a distance from the thing that they are reacting to (in your dogs case other dogs) where they can stay calm. it is at this distance you will be able to get Jess's attention and easily lead her another direction. If she starts reacting, you have gotten too close and that is why it's "not possible" to lead her away. It's also the #1 reason a dog won't respond to the training we will be suggesting.
what to do. Well first, Nettle's request for more info about your dog's daily routine, any training they have such as just the basics sit, stay, down, recall etc., any silly tricks, training experience you have will be helpful. what do you feed, how often. exercise, how much and how often. those kind of details really do help.
In the mean time as far as Jess goes, avoid all dogs as if they were the plague for now. in the ultimate ideal your dog for the next couple weeks would never see another dog at any distance. But being we do live in the real world and you can't control what other people and their dogs will do, at the minimum shoot for keeping other dogs at the greatest distance possible, ask people not to approach you and your dog with their dog that kind of thing. The purpose of this is to give you and your dog a break. When dogs behave as Jess does when seeing another dog it's generally experiencing fear and stress, which produce hormones to deal with these feeling and situations. the more you experience something scary/stressful the more hormones will flowing in the system, the higher the hormone level will be, the longer it takes to truly calm down. when your dog is in a high arousal/fear/stress state it can't learn, so we start by giving our dogs a break. it also gives us a break because their behavior can be stressful on us too, which affects our ability to help our dogs.
How to accomplish this. take more frequent and shorter walks. or take your dogs at "odd" times verse when everyone else it typically walking their dog. Or put your dog in the car and drive some place you know will be a low risk of running into another dog.
When you do see another dog, turn and go the other way BEFORE Jess can "zone in" on the other dog and start reacting. If that isn't an option, cross over to the other side of the street and pass there. or move behind a tree, parked car, bush, dumpster, wall, building anything you can to break line of sight. when passing dogs at any distance get in the habit of putting your self between Jess and the other dog so you act like a "wall" for her. for loose dogs that maybe trying to come up to you and Jess, some suggestions are outlined here viewtopic.php?f=20&t=12789 and you can always try just asking the loose dog to sit in the sternest most "Do it NOW" voice you can make. try not to panic over loose dogs, most are not a real danger to you and will respond to your go away efforts.
So that will get you started while we wait for more info about Jess's daily routine. There is more to share with you, the above is not the entire solution, but simply the starting place. Long term you need to change Jess's feelings about other dogs and that is done by paring something she really likes such as a yummy treat with knowing the other dog is there, but at a safe distance so that Jess doesn't feel she needs to react.
hang in there, we can help. My dog has gone from almost identical to what you describe Jess doing, to staying behind me by choice while I deal with loose dog that is in a dead run right at us, to sometimes being able to like this morning help defuse a situation between his dog buddy and another dog, and he is the reactive fearful dog. So while it's not possible to say what Jess will achieve down the road, what I can tell you there is hope for making life better for Jess and you when it comes to other dogs.
So your friends brother is mostly the right track...see dog go a different direction. As Nettles likes to remind us, we are taller than our dogs, so we generally can see the other dog BEFORE our dog does and starts reacting. it does take a little practice, but you will soon know just by how someone is holding them self off in the distance if they have a dog with them or not. Of course if the dog is big enough you will just be able to see the dog. You also learn to listen for the jingle of leashes and collars as a clue as to if a dog is up ahead or not.
All reactive dogs have a distance from the thing that they are reacting to (in your dogs case other dogs) where they can stay calm. it is at this distance you will be able to get Jess's attention and easily lead her another direction. If she starts reacting, you have gotten too close and that is why it's "not possible" to lead her away. It's also the #1 reason a dog won't respond to the training we will be suggesting.
what to do. Well first, Nettle's request for more info about your dog's daily routine, any training they have such as just the basics sit, stay, down, recall etc., any silly tricks, training experience you have will be helpful. what do you feed, how often. exercise, how much and how often. those kind of details really do help.
In the mean time as far as Jess goes, avoid all dogs as if they were the plague for now. in the ultimate ideal your dog for the next couple weeks would never see another dog at any distance. But being we do live in the real world and you can't control what other people and their dogs will do, at the minimum shoot for keeping other dogs at the greatest distance possible, ask people not to approach you and your dog with their dog that kind of thing. The purpose of this is to give you and your dog a break. When dogs behave as Jess does when seeing another dog it's generally experiencing fear and stress, which produce hormones to deal with these feeling and situations. the more you experience something scary/stressful the more hormones will flowing in the system, the higher the hormone level will be, the longer it takes to truly calm down. when your dog is in a high arousal/fear/stress state it can't learn, so we start by giving our dogs a break. it also gives us a break because their behavior can be stressful on us too, which affects our ability to help our dogs.
How to accomplish this. take more frequent and shorter walks. or take your dogs at "odd" times verse when everyone else it typically walking their dog. Or put your dog in the car and drive some place you know will be a low risk of running into another dog.
When you do see another dog, turn and go the other way BEFORE Jess can "zone in" on the other dog and start reacting. If that isn't an option, cross over to the other side of the street and pass there. or move behind a tree, parked car, bush, dumpster, wall, building anything you can to break line of sight. when passing dogs at any distance get in the habit of putting your self between Jess and the other dog so you act like a "wall" for her. for loose dogs that maybe trying to come up to you and Jess, some suggestions are outlined here viewtopic.php?f=20&t=12789 and you can always try just asking the loose dog to sit in the sternest most "Do it NOW" voice you can make. try not to panic over loose dogs, most are not a real danger to you and will respond to your go away efforts.
So that will get you started while we wait for more info about Jess's daily routine. There is more to share with you, the above is not the entire solution, but simply the starting place. Long term you need to change Jess's feelings about other dogs and that is done by paring something she really likes such as a yummy treat with knowing the other dog is there, but at a safe distance so that Jess doesn't feel she needs to react.
hang in there, we can help. My dog has gone from almost identical to what you describe Jess doing, to staying behind me by choice while I deal with loose dog that is in a dead run right at us, to sometimes being able to like this morning help defuse a situation between his dog buddy and another dog, and he is the reactive fearful dog. So while it's not possible to say what Jess will achieve down the road, what I can tell you there is hope for making life better for Jess and you when it comes to other dogs.
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hamptongardens
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2011 3:24 am
Re: dogs behaviour
To be honest she doesnt have a routine i dont take her out at all due to the way she is....
i feed her dry buscuits in morning and in evening then she is free to play in garden etc....
as far as taking her out at different times than other dogs more than likely during work hours is impossible due to having two kids and hubby is working and not back till half 4/5pm...
she sits for me when i ask and her recall seems good when no dogs around.....
i have taken her for a walk and a dog has been further in front and a dog behind and she has been fine not a bothered at all i think its more when she bumps ino them i.e round a corneretc....
i feed her dry buscuits in morning and in evening then she is free to play in garden etc....
as far as taking her out at different times than other dogs more than likely during work hours is impossible due to having two kids and hubby is working and not back till half 4/5pm...
she sits for me when i ask and her recall seems good when no dogs around.....
i have taken her for a walk and a dog has been further in front and a dog behind and she has been fine not a bothered at all i think its more when she bumps ino them i.e round a corneretc....
Re: dogs behaviour
Take Jess out at 6am, and 9pm and again at 11pm - just for ten minutes practice at walking on a loose lead.
Three practices at this a day, of just ten minutes (or heck start with five minutes!) each time will make a HUGE difference within days!
For the old guy - he probably can't do the amount of walking Jess will be able to do once she doesnt pull on the lead, BUT - the less you walk him, the sooner his arthritis will get worse and the less he will be able to do. It is important to keep arthritic dogs moving and treat the arthritis, however you cannot train Jess whilst walking him so when your Husband is home, HE can walk the old guy with the kids, and you can train Jess.
During the day when you cannot do loose leash walking practice iwth Jess because you can't leave the kids unsupervised, you CAN practice in the back yard, and you can play games and do bits of training in the house and out in the yard.
Check out our thread on clicker training in the Articles section, and also go to www.clickertraining.com - again this is something else you can do in short, 5 minute sessions spaced throughout the day. I do some clicker training with one or other of my dogs whilst sitting nad having a cup of tea!
This will help Jess become more responsive to you, it will also tire out her brain which should make her less reactive and easier to live with, which is what you need.
I think though, you and your husband need to sit down and have a chat about these two dogs, because regardless of who did or did not do what at the beginning, you are now legally and morally responsible for them, so it IS up to you to find ways round the general 'life obstacles' and practicalities, to get them trained and able to lead a happy, normal life.
Three practices at this a day, of just ten minutes (or heck start with five minutes!) each time will make a HUGE difference within days!
For the old guy - he probably can't do the amount of walking Jess will be able to do once she doesnt pull on the lead, BUT - the less you walk him, the sooner his arthritis will get worse and the less he will be able to do. It is important to keep arthritic dogs moving and treat the arthritis, however you cannot train Jess whilst walking him so when your Husband is home, HE can walk the old guy with the kids, and you can train Jess.
During the day when you cannot do loose leash walking practice iwth Jess because you can't leave the kids unsupervised, you CAN practice in the back yard, and you can play games and do bits of training in the house and out in the yard.
Check out our thread on clicker training in the Articles section, and also go to www.clickertraining.com - again this is something else you can do in short, 5 minute sessions spaced throughout the day. I do some clicker training with one or other of my dogs whilst sitting nad having a cup of tea!
This will help Jess become more responsive to you, it will also tire out her brain which should make her less reactive and easier to live with, which is what you need.
I think though, you and your husband need to sit down and have a chat about these two dogs, because regardless of who did or did not do what at the beginning, you are now legally and morally responsible for them, so it IS up to you to find ways round the general 'life obstacles' and practicalities, to get them trained and able to lead a happy, normal life.
West Midlands based 1-2-1 Training & Behaviour Canine Consultant
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hamptongardens
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2011 3:24 am
Re: dogs behaviour
to emmabeth;
we have been told not to walk the old one so we play in garden with him.. my husband starts work at 6am so cant do that and im not getting up earlier lol i would have to take jess out later at night just for ten mins as thats all i can do she does get exercise in garden and the vet has said shes in good shape like my hubby said to my friends brother just avoid other dogs and he said yeah u can do that aswell
we have been told not to walk the old one so we play in garden with him.. my husband starts work at 6am so cant do that and im not getting up earlier lol i would have to take jess out later at night just for ten mins as thats all i can do she does get exercise in garden and the vet has said shes in good shape like my hubby said to my friends brother just avoid other dogs and he said yeah u can do that aswell
Re: dogs behaviour
I understand busy schedules and having to care for kids. But I do encourage you to stop and think about how you might be able to fit in some time to work with Jess. Avoiding is a great first step, but it's only a first step and will not by it's self solve the problem. the longer you put off working this issue, the worse it will get, the harder and longer it will take to address when you do start working it.
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hamptongardens
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2011 3:24 am
Re: dogs behaviour
yeah i understand that there is no way i can take her out with the pram as she pulls on lead i want to sort this problem out sooner rather than later but have no idea where to start.
avoiding is a good first step but like u say cant do it forever...
i just need a step by step guide to long leash training and maybe clicker training to heel on lead
nothing seems to calm her down when she bumps into an other dog ive tried treats and all sorts
avoiding is a good first step but like u say cant do it forever...
i just need a step by step guide to long leash training and maybe clicker training to heel on lead
nothing seems to calm her down when she bumps into an other dog ive tried treats and all sorts
Re: dogs behaviour
Fair enough, reactive dogs present many challenges and leave you feeling like there are 100 things that all need to be worked on and sorted out YESTERDAY. The good news is there isn't. many small "side" issues will disappear as you work with your dog to be calm when other dogs are around.
To start, forget long leashes. you want to use a normal 6 foot or so walking leash. the longer the leash, the more speed the dog can build up if it charges off. Long leashes will become an important tool later, but for now stick to short leashes. I also recommend using a harness over a collar if your dog likes to lunge and thrash around. something along the lines of this http://www.oregonpetsupply.com/x_harnesses.php . if your not used to harnesses it might feel like you are loosing control, but once I got used to them, I am actually less relaxed with my dog the odd and rare time I will clip a leash to a collar.
for teaching a loose lead walk so your dog isn't pulling, check out this thread viewtopic.php?f=20&t=858 . You could even start in your garden working on this if you wanted to. In fact it might make sense to take a week or two off walking out in public and just work in the garden for two weeks. then start some short (distance and time) walks at times you have a low risk of running into other dogs. For now, I wouldn't worry about heeling. just work on loose lead. because when you get to the point of being able to go on "proper" walks it's not reasonable to expect your dog to be in literal heel for 30 + minutes. The nice thing about the link I give for teaching a loose lead walk, if a literal heel is a skill you want your dog to have (nothing wrong with that) this method will get you very close to a literal heel anyway making polishing up a literal heel fairly easy.
The way it would look is your walking down the street, she sees a dog walking towards you...you notice she sees the dog treat, good girl, turn walk the other way. passing dog on other side of the street. Move so your between Jess and the other dog, as you get "close" start treating her so her focus is on you, treats one at a time as fast as you can get them to her as you pass on your side of the street. after the other dog is moving away, you keep waking the opposite direction and stop treating. if she starts reacting at even this distance and stops taking treats, stop trying to give treats and keep moving forward away from the other dog as quick as you can. make note of the distance and try to keep more distance next time.
To start, forget long leashes. you want to use a normal 6 foot or so walking leash. the longer the leash, the more speed the dog can build up if it charges off. Long leashes will become an important tool later, but for now stick to short leashes. I also recommend using a harness over a collar if your dog likes to lunge and thrash around. something along the lines of this http://www.oregonpetsupply.com/x_harnesses.php . if your not used to harnesses it might feel like you are loosing control, but once I got used to them, I am actually less relaxed with my dog the odd and rare time I will clip a leash to a collar.
for teaching a loose lead walk so your dog isn't pulling, check out this thread viewtopic.php?f=20&t=858 . You could even start in your garden working on this if you wanted to. In fact it might make sense to take a week or two off walking out in public and just work in the garden for two weeks. then start some short (distance and time) walks at times you have a low risk of running into other dogs. For now, I wouldn't worry about heeling. just work on loose lead. because when you get to the point of being able to go on "proper" walks it's not reasonable to expect your dog to be in literal heel for 30 + minutes. The nice thing about the link I give for teaching a loose lead walk, if a literal heel is a skill you want your dog to have (nothing wrong with that) this method will get you very close to a literal heel anyway making polishing up a literal heel fairly easy.
This is because she is beyond her threshold. the technical word for describing how close/far she can be from a dog and not react. The goal is to work with Jess sub threshold. she should not be reacting to the other dog(s) as your out and about and rewarding her for calm observation of other dogs. when you get too close she goes into reactive mode and it's all about self preservation. It's not that she isn't listening, she can't listen in that state. So it won't matter that you have the worlds best treats, she is in survival mode and is only worried about that other dog she is perceiving as a threat. ideally you avoid meeting other dogs intentional or other wise, but if life happens and you find your self and Jess to close, don't try and train your way out with treats, just as calmly and safely and quickly as possible move for distance.hamptongardens wrote:nothing seems to calm her down when she bumps into an other dog ive tried treats and all sorts
The way it would look is your walking down the street, she sees a dog walking towards you...you notice she sees the dog treat, good girl, turn walk the other way. passing dog on other side of the street. Move so your between Jess and the other dog, as you get "close" start treating her so her focus is on you, treats one at a time as fast as you can get them to her as you pass on your side of the street. after the other dog is moving away, you keep waking the opposite direction and stop treating. if she starts reacting at even this distance and stops taking treats, stop trying to give treats and keep moving forward away from the other dog as quick as you can. make note of the distance and try to keep more distance next time.
Re: dogs behaviour
Hi Sadie
First of all I am most certainly not one of the experts, I`m not even one of the post`ers I just come on here and read a lot, what I am is a an owner of a dog with very similar problems to yours. I can honestly say the advice Jacksdad has given about avoidance really does work. I had been advised by a trainer to hold her in close by me and tell her leave it sternly, but she is a very nervous girl and it just seemed to be making it worse, I joined this forum and started reading all the advice on reactive dogs, now I have got to admit here I was sceptical I though I can`t do that forever, I live in a touristy area there are always dogs out and about here, I live in the UK all narrow roads and no wide widths between opposite pavements, I have another dog to walk can`t leave her at home, my dog is really, really reactive...... and so on and so on. Anyway I tried it and now just a few weeks later she is so much better not perfect by any means but I can actually get her within site of another dog now without her reacting, she is now looking at me when she sees another dog at a distance she can cope with rather than barking and lunging. Of course life happens some days there are dogs around every corner or so it seems!! and you just have to cling on and get past it but i don`t panic any more I know i can get her back on track fairly quickly. She still pulls like a train but at least she not so reactive now so small steps at a time. Sorry this is not advice but just wanted to offer you encouragement to give it a go. Good luck with it all
First of all I am most certainly not one of the experts, I`m not even one of the post`ers I just come on here and read a lot, what I am is a an owner of a dog with very similar problems to yours. I can honestly say the advice Jacksdad has given about avoidance really does work. I had been advised by a trainer to hold her in close by me and tell her leave it sternly, but she is a very nervous girl and it just seemed to be making it worse, I joined this forum and started reading all the advice on reactive dogs, now I have got to admit here I was sceptical I though I can`t do that forever, I live in a touristy area there are always dogs out and about here, I live in the UK all narrow roads and no wide widths between opposite pavements, I have another dog to walk can`t leave her at home, my dog is really, really reactive...... and so on and so on. Anyway I tried it and now just a few weeks later she is so much better not perfect by any means but I can actually get her within site of another dog now without her reacting, she is now looking at me when she sees another dog at a distance she can cope with rather than barking and lunging. Of course life happens some days there are dogs around every corner or so it seems!! and you just have to cling on and get past it but i don`t panic any more I know i can get her back on track fairly quickly. She still pulls like a train but at least she not so reactive now so small steps at a time. Sorry this is not advice but just wanted to offer you encouragement to give it a go. Good luck with it all
Re: dogs behaviour
If you can find a way to practice loose leash walking, and entertain her brain as well to improve the bond and get her using her brain to tire her out - it doesnt matter WHEN you do it.
If that means you or hubby get up at 5 and give her five minutes then, or she has three goes out in the evening when he gets home after work, its fine. If you spend the day doing little five minute sessions with a clicker, giving her kong toys to eat from instead of meals from a bowl, getting some of the Nina Ottosen puzzle toys (there are some generic versions that may be cheaper) which you fill up with food and though you need to supervise it is something you can do whilst having a coffee or minding a child... then thats all good.
However, what WONT work is if you give loads of reasons why you cannot do a thing - honestly, I don't give a rats if or how or why you CAN'T do something. Figure out a way you CAN do something.
We will help all we can, if you say 'ok, how do I get around this problem' we will bend over backwards for you like we have done for countless others...
But if you say 'well I won't do that..' then you won't get very far at all.
Positive training starts with your attitude - you made a great step in coming here and asking for help, so start thinking positively 'how can I achieve this, how can I work around that' and stop thinking about how/why you cannot do things.
If that means you or hubby get up at 5 and give her five minutes then, or she has three goes out in the evening when he gets home after work, its fine. If you spend the day doing little five minute sessions with a clicker, giving her kong toys to eat from instead of meals from a bowl, getting some of the Nina Ottosen puzzle toys (there are some generic versions that may be cheaper) which you fill up with food and though you need to supervise it is something you can do whilst having a coffee or minding a child... then thats all good.
However, what WONT work is if you give loads of reasons why you cannot do a thing - honestly, I don't give a rats if or how or why you CAN'T do something. Figure out a way you CAN do something.
We will help all we can, if you say 'ok, how do I get around this problem' we will bend over backwards for you like we have done for countless others...
But if you say 'well I won't do that..' then you won't get very far at all.
Positive training starts with your attitude - you made a great step in coming here and asking for help, so start thinking positively 'how can I achieve this, how can I work around that' and stop thinking about how/why you cannot do things.
West Midlands based 1-2-1 Training & Behaviour Canine Consultant
Re: dogs behaviour
Hi, there are already here advices that are very usefull for you. I have similar problem with our boxer, when he sees other dogs, is like he doesn't know what to do, so he can get "agressive". we're working with him a lot, but the main thing we have to work it's reducing his stress level. with help form this forum an a professional positive trainer (we went to an agressive dog's seminar with him, the best one ever), we're making progress, but let me tell ya, it's slow, and sometimes it's just nervracking, but need to remain calm.
He's main problem is that he's so stress that he can't focus on anything, and kids moving, dogs and those kind of things just make him go so hyper. so, the dog mainly needs calm environment, and for a time i will try to avoid any contact with any dog.
The recall thing he does good, but you should try to work on a different call, the "look at me" one, if you work this correctly, you'll ve able to take him to another direction when you see a dog, so you can keep on working. I use the kiss sound with mines, and works better everyday. that way you don't have to pull him off the leash, and he will learn to focus on other things.
As they say, also work the not puling thing, with mine it's not there yet, but you need to keep the hope up, but you'll enjoy working with him, and the days you see things are better, that day it's like glorious, so keep those days in mind whenever he goes back to his old behaviour, and keep in mind that it has been years of that, so just breathe deeply, and think about the good things.
All this might not help, but i know for experience how stressful can be, and the process can be slow and long, and it's really worthy.
Good luck with it, and keep updated, coz advices here, also help people like me,
He's main problem is that he's so stress that he can't focus on anything, and kids moving, dogs and those kind of things just make him go so hyper. so, the dog mainly needs calm environment, and for a time i will try to avoid any contact with any dog.
The recall thing he does good, but you should try to work on a different call, the "look at me" one, if you work this correctly, you'll ve able to take him to another direction when you see a dog, so you can keep on working. I use the kiss sound with mines, and works better everyday. that way you don't have to pull him off the leash, and he will learn to focus on other things.
As they say, also work the not puling thing, with mine it's not there yet, but you need to keep the hope up, but you'll enjoy working with him, and the days you see things are better, that day it's like glorious, so keep those days in mind whenever he goes back to his old behaviour, and keep in mind that it has been years of that, so just breathe deeply, and think about the good things.
All this might not help, but i know for experience how stressful can be, and the process can be slow and long, and it's really worthy.
Good luck with it, and keep updated, coz advices here, also help people like me,
Re: dogs behaviour
Just incase you haven't found our loose leash article from these boards, you can see it here: viewtopic.php?f=20&t=858
