Article: Who's Walking Who?

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Who’s walking who?
Posted on December 27, 2010 by pawsitivedawgs| Leave a comment

Original posting: Friday, June 19, 2009
Pulling on the leash is the number one most common ‘obedience’ issue that our clients call us about.
It is also the training issue that has generated more product development (and some of the nastiest equipment too) than any other – all those “miracle” cures and still leash pulling is a problem; go figure!

Believe it or not nice loose leash walking (LLW) manners are pretty easy to teach but as usual we have taught our dogs to pull! (Are you beginning to see a pattern here? we are the cause of many of the ‘problems’ we blame our dogs for!!)

Dogs pull for a number of reasons:

* first off they have twice the number of legs we have so move faster than we do
* they have different priorities than we do when out walking – we like to take in the sights where as dogs move so as to gather as much scent-information as possible by following pee-mails and scent trails
* the act of pulling, which causes an opposition reflex is highly rewarding to dogs (you have seen sled-dogs pulling? they look like they are having fun, right?)
* dogs get where they want to go by pulling to get there – works every time, with owner in tow!

Despite all the tools, training is the only solution – tools are just that, they don’t necessarily change behaviour forever. So lets look at how to train the dog to walk nicely.

The benefits to a loose leash walking dog are obvious, particularly from a health point of view (of both you and your pet).
Dogs that pull on leash suffer damage to their necks, shoulders, back and pressure on their neck can lead to eye damage.
Dogs that walk out at the very end of the leash are more difficult to control, because they are not really walking with you, and are more likely to lunge and bark at the goings on.
Tension on leash may also lead to the dog feeling more frustrated leading to reactivity on leash.
Yep – get that dog on a loose leash ASAP!!
Is it heeling, LLW or just not pulling?

First thing you need to understand is that different people have different ideas of what they want when walking their dog on leash. Decide what you want and work for that.

Heeling is traditionally a competitive obedience position that involves the dog walking on the handler’s left side, dog’s shoulder level with handler’s trouser seam, maintaining close position and eye contact.
This position, although it looks smart, is usually not necessary for pet dog walking.

Loose leash walking (LLW) can mean a number of different things, depending on who you talk to. It is essentially just the dog walking at such a pace and in such a position that keeps the loose leash. Many people like to categorise a loose leash as one that looks like a ‘smile’ as the dog walks.

I ask owners to hold the leash and their belt buckle – if the dog puts sufficient pressure on the leash to move their hand away from their belt buckle then that is not a loose leash.

When teaching LLW we usually look for a close-ish position, some eye contact and attention on the owner. The leash should form a J shape between handler and dog. This position is suitable for crossing the street, walking along busy streets, close to other dogs or in situations where more attention and control are needed.

‘Just not pulling’ is what most people want from their dogs. For the most part this is the position we aim for – no pressure on the leash. The dog can range and wander within the leash’s length e.g. 6 feet but no more.

This is a normal everyday walking position ideal for most dogs in many situations.

A combination of ‘just not pulling’ and a closer LLW with attention are the basics in leash walking that pet dogs require at a minimum.

This is a nice clip from Ahimsa Dog Training comparing their different leash walking standards.

There are basically three stages when working through loose leash walking training:

1. management – stop the pulling
2. teaching that its nice to hang around close to you
3. teaching a default loose leash
4. teaching a closer, smarter position with focus

Exercise 1.1: management & tools

We have to stop the dog getting the opportunity to practice this behaviour any longer – lets face it, they are already pretty good at it! Even if you do nothing else it’s vital that the management exercises are a part of your dogs’ walkies for ever more.

This is where tools come in but be careful not all tools are suitable for all dogs.

Up to a couple of years or so ago, I would probably have recommended head collars in many situations where we were re-training leash walking. Not so anymore and there are a couple of reasons. The first being that many dogs find head collars really aversive and in some cases even after I have worked hard on gradual desensitisation and counterconditioning (D+C) in an attempt to teach them to enjoy wearing it. Out of all the head collars out there I find dogs most able to enjoy wearing a Gentle Leader but only after a careful D+C program.
Secondly, I find that many pet owners don’t want to go through the gradual process of introducing the head collar and they lose faith and abandon the process too early. Don’t get me wrong head collars are still part of my tool box but I use them only in very specific cases, usually connected with reactivity and rarely with loose leash walking exercises.

Instead, I have almost totally converted to the use of front-leading harnesses for LLW training. There are several brands including the Halti harness, the Easy Walker and the Sens-ation and Sens-ible Harnesses.

When out walking, this will stop the dog from pulling because as he does the leash tightening on the front ring will guide the dog to the side and back towards you. Along with training techniques this is a very effective tool.

But, like all tools they are limited – there is no point using it unless you are going to work on training the dog too. Otherwise the dog will learn to pull on this just as he did on all the other tools that you have tried.

When working on LLW (or indeed any training exercises) please do not use choke chains, prong collars, tightening collars, shock collars, extendable leashes, regular harnesses or any gimmicks. These are not necessary and will make training and behaviour change more difficult. Not being able to go where he wants to go at the pace he wants to go at is aversive enough without adding more aversives to the process.

Did you know that other than being unreliable and dangerous, extendable leashes teach the dog to pull?!
The dog must pull so that the leash extends therefore the dog is rewarded for putting pressure on the leash. Also, when pulled the leash provides a little resistance as the spool extends – this creates that opposition reflex further reinforcing the pulling.

8 Reasons to Avoid Flexi Leashes from PBRC

Extendable leashes do have a place but that’s on trained dogs – dogs that are under verbal control in all scenarios during which the leash is used.

Jerking, popping, yelling, hitting, poking, kicking are not necessary for leash training (or indeed any training) so please don’t include these acts in your training programs. They don’t stop the dog from pulling (think why you must repeatedley do it?) and just serve to cause your dog to think worse of you.
APDT (UK) Why we don’t use choke chains - remember pressure on the neck caused by any training tool can lead to problems so train your dog to walk nicely rather than rely on tools, especially aversive ones.
Exercise 1.2: management & red-light-green-light

Red-light-Green-light is a management exercise that is essential for use during training; this should become a way of life so that you never reward pulling again and so that your dog learns to always keep the leash loose.

From the time the leash is attached to the dog’s collar, red-light-green-light is in play. Any and every time the dog puts any pressure on the leash STOP dead and do not engage with the dog.

Your dog must un-learn that pulling means go and that,actually, pulling means everything stops and becomes very boring.

As soon as your dog moves to reduce tension on the leash, immediately mark with a YES! and move forward again.

If while the red light is on there is a stale mate, as in the dog is frozen, zoned out or perhaps enjoying stopping for a break, say “Uh-Oh” and take a couple of steps back – penalty yards.
As soon as he loosens the tension, mark with a YES! and move forward.
Exercise 2: calm preparation for walkies

Crazy pre-walk behaviour is a big contributor to the pulling and general misbehaviour on leash. It must become a very strict household rule that your dog does not progress toward walkies without calm behaviour.

At the beginning, we just want a small reduction in the whirling-dervish dog but as we progress we must get pickier and require progressively less crazy.

All the steps toward preparing for walkies have become associated with this great reward so your dog may well become very excited long before the leash appears.

You need to desensitise your dog to all these walkies-signals so as to reduce his crazy response to them. We will teach our dogs how to choose to be calm, because calm behaviour is the ONLY behaviour that gets walkies!

Ask your dog for a sit or down position, reach for and pick up the leash. Watch your dog closely.
If he pops out of position ask for it again – if he complies continue but if not put the leash away again.

Wait for calm and start again. Repeat until you can do this without the crazy dog act.

Holding the leash in one hand, reach down and hook your dog’s collar with a finger so as to prevent the dog from jumping up. Again wait for calm before proceeding to attach your dog’s leash. If calmness is not offered, put the leash out of sight and wait for calm again.

The key here is consistency and lots of practice. Have several sessions per day so as to speed up progress.
Exercise 3: follow me!

This exercise really is the vital one underlying loose leash walking problems – our dogs not been shown that its beneficial to walk close to their person.

This exercise is as much for the owner as the dog. You need to learn how to keep the dog with you without having the back up of a leash and collar – be an interesting, exciting owner and your dog will want to stay beside you.

This is a great exercise for rewarding with a toy that is revealed for a game of tug. If your dog is more motivated by food rewards use those to begin with but try to get working with toys as soon as possible.

The secret to getting your dog following is to essentially do the exact opposite to your dog, for example if he slows you speed up, if he turns you go in the other direction and so on and this way the dog learns to keep an eye on you.

Start, as always, in a low distraction area and reward following after a few steps. Build the distance you can maintain a following dog and then move onto higher distraction areas. If your dog does not follow do what ever you have to get and keep his attention.

DO NOT work with your dog off leash in an unsecured area unless you have a 100% reliable recall.

Some nice clips showing the follow me! game:
Following Course at Home
Following Course at the Park
Open Field Following

Follow me! exercises get you and your dog ready for the next stage: loose leash walking practice!
Exercise 4.1: giving into pressure

This exercise helps to teach your dog that tension on the leash is a cue to look at you. Continue using the front connection harness for walking and some of the other loose leash walking exercises described here, but for this one attach the leash to a flat/buckle collar and only work like this for this exercise.

Work in a low distraction area to start with and stock up with plenty of small treats in your pocket.

Walk a couple of steps with your dog on leash and allow the leash to go taut. As soon as you feel slight leash pressure, not yanking or your dog’s weight, click (or mark with a YES!) and offer your dog one treat from your hand.

Repeat the exercise at least 10 times in a session. You will soon notice that your dog anticipates the click (or YES!) when he feels leash pressure – wohoo! At this stage begin to click (or mark) his head turn just after leash pressure.

When you get to this stage, start to take this exercise on the road by practicing in a couple of different areas of the house, then the back garden, then the front of the house, then the street and so on.
Exercise 4.2: default loose leash

Along with Exercise 4.1, this exercise is designed to teach your dog to be aware and responsive to the lightest of pressure. If you have worked hard on the last exercise, this one will be easy-peasy!

Again work on your dog’s flat collar and leash. This exercise can be used for your dog to earn one entire meal, kibble by kibble.

Take one step away from the dog to the end of the leash so that it is taut but not pulling on the dog…and wait…wait for your dog to move in such a way that loosens the leash. At this stage he may only shift his weight or take a small step; if you have been working on 4.1 this will move along faster.

As soon as he moves to loosen the leash click or say YES! and show him a piece of kibble. Place the kibble on the floor beside your foot that is closest to the dog.

While he is eating take another step and wait for him to loosen the leash again. Repeat.

When it comes to using leash pressure as a cue I love Grisha Stewart’s Silky Leash Technique; article and clips here.
Exercise 5: choose to heel

Now we are really making headway and our dog has learnt that following you is great and that he needs to be aware of leash pressure and correct tension on leash to earn reward.

If we have achieved that much that is brilliant but now we are going to up the ante and look for slightly more focus and closer walking position.

If you have been playing follow me! and doing default loose leash exercises this will be a snap!

Again work in a low distraction area with as much space as possible. Work with your dog on his flat/buckle collar and leash.

This exercise asks a little more from your dog, keeping the leash loose isn’t enough for this one…we are now going to reward close walking position and focus on you. We are going to teach him to choose this position.

At the very start we will only look for close walking position but very soon we will look for close walking position and eye contact.

Move forward with your dog at your normal pace as soon as he gets into close walking position – his shoulder level with your trouser seam, mark and reward. Continue walking and wait for him to choose the desired position again.
Repeat as often as possible.

Work on this one once a day for a couple of minutes and within a week you will notice massive improvement.

I love this clip of the stunning Dexter, Bullmastiff, choosing to heel.
Exercise 6: backwards, sideways & straight on!

Once your dog is choosing to heel we can begin to work in focus with a close walking position. This sort of walking position with focus is essential for busy and distracting situations – if your dog is walking close to you giving you eye contact, think of all the mischief he can’t get into to!

This exercise might seem a bit funny at first, but since I have started using it (having seen it on YouTube) I have found it to be very effective and fun! Heelwork exercises can be a bit boring and monotonous so this exercise is a welcome break from the traditional.

Working in the same low distraction area as before start out with your dog on a flat/buckle collar and leash.

Instead of walking forward with your dog beside you, take a few steps backward. You will notice that in this position your dog walks in front of you looking up at you – it is easier for him to give eye contact in this position, plus he can’t pull!

Reward about three steps with eye contact at a time at the start but after 5-10 rewards begin to reward only every five steps with eye contact. Continue to build the number of steps with eye contact that you can achieve.

Once you can hold your dog’s focus for a couple of minutes, with intermittent rewarding, move onto the next level.

With your dog in the same position, instead of you setting out forward, step to the side and reward eye contact from your dog every two steps. After about 10 rewards, begin to reward eye contact if held for three steps and so on. Build slower with this one as this ups the challenge and you are likely to take bigger steps moving this way.

Once your dog can hold eye contact and close walking position for a couple of minutes with only a few rewards you are ready to start walking forwards.

At the beginning of each session practice a few steps of walking backwards, then sideways before working on moving forwards.

Move forward and wait for eye contact to be held for 2 or 3 steps, reward and keep moving. This takes quite a bit more practice. For the pet dog its not essential that the dog hold eye contact, the odd glance away is fine.

Once you have achieved a nice close position with eye contact moving backwards, sideways and forwards take this behaviour on the road. Practice in several rooms around the house and then outdoors, building distraction slowly.

Each time you move to a progressively more distracting area reduce the number of steps with eye contact required for reward (so increase the number and frequency of rewards) and work hardest at the backwards and sideways walking to get a good foundation in.

Here is a lovely clip from Pam’s Dog Academy practicing loose leash walking backwards with Twix.

After working on Exercises 5 and 6 your dog is getting pretty good at close position walking so its time to name the behaviour with a cue word and a release work. Notice we don’t introduce a cue for the default loose leash behaviours as these should be part of leash walking all the time, even without a cue from you.

When you are sure that your dog will offer close walking position with focus begin to use your cue word as you set off. I use the cue ” in” for this but you can use “close” or even “heel” if you like.
Exercise 7: one-step-sit

Now things are really hotting up and getting more and more challenging. This exercise is going to strengthen our walking with eye contact work plus add in another useful lesson – sit when stopped.

Most dogs already have sit as a default behaviour but if your dog doesn’t yet cue the sit every time you slow your pace. Soon your dog will anticipate the stop-sit at your slowing down and you won’t need the verbal cue anymore.

Again work in a low distraction area with your dog wearing a flat collar and leash.

Take a step away from your dog to the end of the leash and wait for him to catch up.When he does, just be boring and wait for him to sit. He might move in front of you to sit and that’s ok for now.

As soon as he sits, reward with a food treat and then take one giant step forward and repeat. Each time your dog will get quicker at sitting and as soon as he is sitting immediately upon you stopping start taking two steps and then stopping. Wait for the sit, reward and take two steps forward.

Continue to build by adding one step at a time as you progress.

Soon you will be able to add the close walking position with eye contact with this one by using your verbal cue e.g. “close” when setting off.

See?! it’s all starting to come together!

Here is a nice clip from DogStar Daily showing this exercise: Reward One Step and Sit
Exercise 8: Zen on Leash

As a way of proofing leash exercises start this lovely self control exercise early on in leash training. This one can be practiced using treats, toys or anything that your dog wants access to such as interesting smells or the opportunity to greet.

Have your dog on leash and work in a low distraction area. Start working with treats but later vary the rewards/distractions used.

Show your dog a treat and then toss it forward so its out of reach. Your dog will probably pull toward the treat – don’t be tempted to jerk or pull on the leash. If your dog is a puller and especially for this exercise, practice on a harness so there is no pressure on his neck.

As soon as he releases the tension this might be a glance up at you, he might move away from the treat or he may move toward you to reduce the tension on the leash – give him a treat from your hand and then bound forward to let him get the treat on the floor.

Repeat about ten times per session. It’s a good idea to practice just before walkies and carry this idea while out on walks – if he pulls toward something, wait until he releases the pressure and reward him by allowing him to go toward it.

At the beginning don’t be too fussy – any release of the tension on the leash can be rewarded. But once he gets the game start upping the challenge.

Require that the dog releases the tension and makes eye contact with you so effectively you are teaching check-ins at the same time too!

When you get to a point that he is giving eye contact to you in this situation, take one step toward the prize and reward him with a treat for keeping the leash loose and then let him have the tossed treat too.

If he doesn’t keep the leash loose, begin again waiting for that check in.

Soon you will be able to build up the number of steps that you take toward the tossed treat. This is the secret to teaching a nice loose leash walking position even amid distractions.

At this level, begin to vary the item tossed – you might like to toss his favourite toy or different treats.

Here are a couple of great clips showing leave it exercises; a more basic one first here and one from Dr Yin showing advanced progress here.
Cavaletti, Ladders and Balanced Walking

I first heard of balanced walking when I started to research and study T-touch. Pulling dogs are off balance all the time and by helping them to maintain balance they will find it easier to walk without forging ahead.

For more information check out these resources on T-touch walking in balance by Jennifer Merrit:
Walking in Balance with T-touch
Walking in Balance with T-touch video

For more information on T-touch why not check out Getting in T-touch with your dog by Linda Tellington-Jones.

Cavaletti are borrowed from the horse world and are basically ground or very nearly ground poles that are spaced according to the size and condition of the animal.
They are used to help the animal develop and extend gait, to develop the animal’s rear strength, to teach the animal how to improve placement of their feet, to raise awareness of their body positioning and lots more. There are lots of uses for these tools in performance horse and dog training. By using low cavaletti or a ladder flat on the ground we can teach a pulling dog to slow and steady their gait and concentrate on how to place their feet.
Give Your Dog A New Loose Leash on Life!

Walking your dog should be a pleasure for you and your dog and should not be dreaded or cause you to have an aching body (pulling causes much aching for dogs too).

The first and most important thing to remember is to not allow pulling – remember when going on walks during training use your front clip harness and red light green light (with penalty yards) so that you prevent pulling being rewarded.

Work on training exercises in the mean time in ever increasingly distracting situations so that soon you will be able to walk from A to B without having to stop and start.