Problem Solving by Numbers (Dog Training)

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Problem Solving by Numbers

Posted on December 28, 2011 | Leave a comment
Problems are often solved using formulae developed to be as universal as possible so that solutions can be applied to many different scenarios; think of mathematical and scientific dilemmas that are approached using step by step systems like the Scientific Method.
Most of the behaviour issues we have with our dogs are not really problems at all – barking and humping and pulling are all normal dog behaviours and only serve as problems for the human at the other end of the leash.
With the New Year beckoning and thoughts of reform and clean slates abound we can apply problem solving formulae to help with doggie issues too. Designing a program to help solve a doggie problem can be approached with a straight-forward formula too …
STEP 1 – MANAGEMENT


Management is pretty much the most important ingredient to the successful pet-person relationship. Management is about preventing the rehearsal of behaviour because the more practice they get the better they get. So the first step in behaviour modification is to prevent your dog practicing a behaviour he’s already pretty good at.
Our favourite Step 1 strategies:
proper crate training (or confinement training) using crates, baby gates and puppy play pens
front leading harnesses like the SENSE-ible
long lines for recall training
STEP 2 – PROVIDE ACCEPTABLE OUTLETS


Dogs come with all sorts of behaviours that they must perform – most of these behaviours are the ones that we end up calling ‘problems’. Understanding these vital behaviours as being part of normal dog behaviour goes along way toward preventing them from ever becoming problems.
On top of that, many breeds were developed with particular behaviour repertoires in mind so generally speaking herding types were bred to stalk and chase, retriever types were bred to carry things, terriers were bred to chase small furries and so on. If dogs that need to do these sorts of behaviours don’t have an outlet for them these behaviours are likely to become problematic (for pet and person).
Our favourite Step 2 strategies:
Kong toys , pupsicles and other food dispensing toys
enrichment strategies such as thinking games, mind games, canine entertainment and fun nose work
tug and other games played with rules
appropriate exercise and play
doggie sports
STEP 3 – IDENTIFY AND REMOVE ACCESS TO REINFORCERS


If a behaviour is happening something is reinforcing it – it’s as simple as that. The driving force behind behaviours are reinforcers and the more valuable a reinforcer is to your dog the stronger the behaviour will be.
Step 3 is most suitable to use when we haven’t yet succeeded in our work on Step 5.
To use Step 3 in behaviour modification we first have to work out what the dog is getting out of a particular behaviour; this may be something such as attention that you provide or it may be something that you provide access to such as interesting sniffs.
Our favourite Step 3 strategies:
stop walking if the dog pulls on leash (dog is only rewarded with access to things he wants when the leash is loose)
withdraw the toy if the dog barks (toy is only thrown when dog is quiet and calmer)
reduce visual access to stimuli outside the house or garden (if he can’t see them, he’s less likely to bark at them)
STEP 4 – IDENTIFY AND DESENSITISE TRIGGERS


Triggers are stimuli that get a behaviour started – triggers elicit a classically conditioned response and are particularly associated with things that your dog is afraid of and/or excited by.
Triggers may be visual, auditory and even olfactory so that we may not be aware of them.
Distance is usually the most useful tool when it comes to managing triggers and then we can use classical conditioning to desensitise your dog’s response to them.
Our favourite Step 4 strategies:
as above, distance is your friend so move away from distractions and triggers
open bar/closed bar – as soon as your dog sees a trigger, immediately make good things happen for him (feed him, play with a special toy); as soon as the trigger goes away the fun stops. This works with Step 5 to countercondition a new, alternative behaviour too.
STEP 5 – TEACH ALTERNATIVE, INCOMPATIBLE BEHAVIOURS


”What would you prefer the dog do?” There is usually only one or a limited number of answers to that question – that is the key to efficient training.
Too much time is spent thinking up ingenious ‘corrections’ for the infinite number of possible responses your dog may offer in any one situation. Forget about that and concentrate on the most efficient way to sort problem behaviours. Give your dog a better option and reward this behaviour really well – after all we really appreciate him doing that one rather than the problem one.
You could work this by teaching an alternate behaviour, but to be even more efficient choose an incompatible behaviour. So, think of a behaviour that you could teach your dog that would make it difficult or impossible to carry out the unwanted behaviour.
Out favourite Step 5 strategies:
teach your dog a rock solid sit and/or wait behaviour – wait means ‘freeze and stop whatever you are doing’. Teaching a rock solid sit takes some time and proofing but is so useful it’s worth it – think of all the things your dog can’t do if he’s sitting.
D+C (desensitisation and counterconditioning) – Steps 4 and 5 work together by gradually exposing your dog to a trigger (the desensitisation bit) and teaching your dog to look at you any time a trigger appears (the counterconditioning bit) – this is what the open bar/closed bar game will help you and your pet with
as part of desensitisation to triggers introduce the LAT game (Look At That) – teach your dog to find and alert you to the presence of triggers – more here (scroll down). The LAT premise can be applied to any trigger that acts as a distraction and can be used for all sorts of stimulus types - things the dog can smell, eat, see hear and so on.
put the problem behaviour on cue and then don’t cue it or cue it only in special circumstances - here is an excellent illustration of this as a solution to jumping up.
AS EASY AS 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

Of course behaviour, dogs and their people are not ‘cookie cutter’ but using this simple formula will help you develop a foundation for working on those little niggly issues.
I will always encourage pet owners to consult with a suitably qualified behaviour professional, that has been chosen carefully, to guide them in implementing any behaviour modification or training program.
If your dog’s behaviour has recently and/or suddenly changed or behaviour issues are related to a physiological issue (e.g. toileting), aggression, fear, repetitive behaviours, separation or excessive behaviours a vet’s visit is the first port of call. So, given that, Step 1 maybe better described as a visit to the vet.
Check out our post Prepare for the Worst! for ideas on management, appropriate outlets and modification.
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